Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, due to financial reasons we've decided to get rid of our mkiv supra.

We need to get rid of it to pay off the rest of the loan due to being very broke lol.

The car is almost completely unmolested except for 18"rims and stereo system

and is my girlfriends daily driver as she can't drive a manual :-).

Car:1993 Toyota Supra

Location:Sunnybank Hills, Brisbane

Colour:Black

Trans:Auto

Engine:2jz-ge (NA)

Km's:165,xxx

Other:

Positives:

Has a set of 18" rims with 2 rear tires needed due to an earlier camber problem. Have receipt if needed.

Fronts 225/45/18 rear 264/35/18. Also has a pioneer mp3 head unit and alpine type-r speakers

front and back. Only serviced 2000km ago.

Negatives:

I assume the o2 sensor is on its way out as the engine light comes on when slowing down but goes off

when you start accelerating again.

The drivers side power seat stopped moving forward but seat is as far back as it goes and is still easy for my gf to drive.

Has a foot long scrape on the passanger side rear quarter from the mirror on my civic when she reversed out and didn't

see it.

price: $15,000 ono

She paid just under $20K for it a 2 years ago at an importers in slacks creek.

The car drives perfectly and handles well due to the larger tires. Perfect for a p-plater to pass the time on and still be

driving a nice car. The car currently has my rx7's 18's on the back but will come with the pair to match the front.

Will be sold as is, with no rwc as we don't have the money to replace the tires etc. Car is registered till some time

during june and will be sold with rego still on it. Car is driven daily and can be inspected and test driven upon

request. Any other info needed? Just pm me.

Will try to get some pics before the weekend.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315560-fs-mkiv-supra-na-auto/
Share on other sites

bump.

going panel beaters to get scratches and scrape removed next week and had the scan tool put on and it reads no fault codes. the mechanic said it may be faulty brake fluid level sensor as they are apparently a common problem.

bump.

have a set of bilstein coilovers going in next weekend and faulty brake fluid level sensor replaced. car will now also be sold with a rwc too.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...