Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hay guys, iv been doin research on the IBC and heaps of stuff, but not really helping with that im after. iv just installed a gizzmo IBC on my r33 gtst. which has front mount and 3" zorst.

i just cant seem to get what psi i want. im only after 10psi at the moment. i hav duty at 10ish i think and gain at 2.. i stoped it going over 15psi. what am i doin wrong.

can som1 explain how to set it properly. i have read the manual online and still stuck.

what settings should i use? if any1 could help that would be awsum

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317170-gizzmo-ibc/
Share on other sites

set the gain to zero.

then increase the duty up slowly whilst accel in 3rd or 4th (4th better) usually the duty will be between 30 and 35 to achieve 13-14psi BUT everycar is slightly different as the gate pressures vary slightly.

once the boost is set increase the gain until it spikes then come back 5 points.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317170-gizzmo-ibc/#findComment-5186532
Share on other sites

set gain to 0. and duty at min 10. still goin over 10psi??

check that your solenoid is hooked up correctley. what is the boost run when the solenoid is removed from the circuit? ie boost source straight to the actuator?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317170-gizzmo-ibc/#findComment-5189186
Share on other sites

check that your solenoid is hooked up correctley. what is the boost run when the solenoid is removed from the circuit? ie boost source straight to the actuator?

with the standard boost controll it was stock. lyk 4psi untill 4500revs than a little bit more

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317170-gizzmo-ibc/#findComment-5190681
Share on other sites

boost to port 3 actuator to port 2 on the solenoid? nothing else tee'd into those lines? they must only go to the solenoid then directley to the actuator. Post a pic of the install.

One other thing is the vacuum source to the main unit kinked or squashed at the firewall grommet?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317170-gizzmo-ibc/#findComment-5190774
Share on other sites

boost to port 3 actuator to port 2 on the solenoid? nothing else tee'd into those lines? they must only go to the solenoid then directley to the actuator. Post a pic of the install.

One other thing is the vacuum source to the main unit kinked or squashed at the firewall grommet?

i will post a pic up 2moro afternoon after work, im pritty sure i have the rite ones. i bascially just copyed the stock ones. but the post to intercooling piping is going where the stock one was, wich is off the plumbed back pipe off stiock bov, next to block above zorst manifold and to left. the line going in2 the unit goes through the passenger gromit, no pinching that i could see. ill post a pic 2moro.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317170-gizzmo-ibc/#findComment-5190795
Share on other sites

nar turns out plumb back pipe was the problem, so im guesing it would only allow air to get in wen it blew off. its now connected to a T somewhere else and workes perfect. thanx for ppls help

thats what i noticed in the pics, the boost source for the solenoid was in the wrong spot (hookes to std boost controller dump port in the plumb back line)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317170-gizzmo-ibc/#findComment-5197104
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...