Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For all those using this R31 front sway bar.

Have you checked the diameter with a vernier?

Is it for sure 25mm or is it 23mm maybe??

As I have, what is supposed to have come from an R31 Skyline (mind you I didn't take it off myself) and the verniers say it's only 23mm & 24mm bushes are loose & 25mm are very sloppy.

Can someone confirm the diameter of the front Aussie R31 sedan sway bar??? Not the GTS as that was/is 27mm.

Cheers, D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318696-aussie-r31-front-sway-bar/
Share on other sites

Is it possible the R31 Pintara had an 23mm front sway bar??

And if I can get 23mm GP poly bushes, it still might be a good mix with my custom (Jenesis style) 20mm rear bar. As it's actually shorter than standard, it would be stiffer than standard at the same diameter.

Cheers, D

Is it possible the R31 Pintara had an 23mm front sway bar??

And if I can get 23mm GP poly bushes, it still might be a good mix with my custom (Jenesis style) 20mm rear bar. As it's actually shorter than standard, it would be stiffer than standard at the same diameter.

Cheers, D

D,

When I was buying bushes for mine, (SupaPro) they listed 3 bushing sizes 23,25,27mm I assume that the 27mm would be aftermarket bars, but 23 and 25 probably standard depending on year or body type or maybe whether it is a GTS or something...

Cheers,

D :cool:

I just googled SuperPro to check my mameries were right and found their online Catalogue...

It is good, because you can search for the part for your car (LHS of screen), and then switch from 'Instructions' to 'Vehicle Details' (RHS of screen) and find what other cars you might scab parts off...

http://203.31.191.243/fulcrumCat/

Cheers,

Daewoo

Edited by Daewoo

Got my hands on a manual overnight.

Thanks for the info guys, but I know what is the go now.

23mm ~ CA20E R31 Pintara 25mm ~ RB30E R31 Skyline & 27mm ~ RB30E GTS I & II Skyline

I guess the cockheads at the local wrecker doesn't know there is a diference between Pintara & Skyline front sway bars.

Some time back I had a rear bar bent up & asked a member of this forum to trial it, which never happened. It's the same shape as the Jenesis rear bars (minus the kink) in 20mm solid, so I think I will do my own trials wityh the 23mm front & custom shortened 20mm rear. Should work out pretty good for a road car.

Anyway, thanks again for your help,

Cheers, D

Got my hands on a manual overnight.

Thanks for the info guys, but I know what is the go now.

23mm ~ CA20E R31 Pintara 25mm ~ RB30E R31 Skyline & 27mm ~ RB30E GTS I & II Skyline

I guess the cockheads at the local wrecker doesn't know there is a diference between Pintara & Skyline front sway bars.

Some time back I had a rear bar bent up & asked a member of this forum to trial it, which never happened. It's the same shape as the Jenesis rear bars (minus the kink) in 20mm solid, so I think I will do my own trials wityh the 23mm front & custom shortened 20mm rear. Should work out pretty good for a road car.

Anyway, thanks again for your help,

Cheers, D

What size front will you use for yor race car? white line do a 27mm adjustiable for the R31 should be an ideal bar for an r30 race application ?? its 2mm thicker than used on the gibson cars but in saying that its adjustiable meaning the soft setting may just be about spot on

If I get it to Adelaide, it's going to have stock shaped 27mm front & 24mm rear, but I'll take an R31/RB30 25mm bar with me, with bushes to suit for trial purposes. It also has 400lb/in front springs & 300lb/in rear springs over the 4 way adjustable JIC Coilovers. I hope to have a set of Toyo R888's for it as well.

Might be fun with about 400HP at the wheels.

Cheers, D

I'll have some pics of my PNV front set up shortly, complete with externally adjustable Koni strut inserts, Cusco camber tops (compliments of the DR) & lowered King springs, SWR adjustable caster bars, new lower control arms, new slotted DR brake rotors, EBC Green Stuff pads & 23mm front sway bar.

I have Reds & Greens for replacement, but for a street car, I think my choice for rear pads will be Bendix General C/T in future and use the reds up front.

Cheers & thanks, D

Very interesting D, keep us posted on how it goes,

my set up will be the whiteline bar adjustiable 27mm, tien s13 coilovers with r32 gtr brakes 350lb springs and adjustiable caster rods... for the rear though im going to down a different track and run no rear swaybar and re valved r33 front coilovers in the rear.. yes they fit and are good with short 250lb rear springs..

the rear end i think will be to stiff with stiff shocks and springs, power to the road is key i noticed the gibson cars ran no swaybars..

Marc

Very interesting D, keep us posted on how it goes,

the rear end i think will be to stiff with stiff shocks and springs, power to the road is key i noticed the gibson cars ran no swaybars..

Marc

Marc,

It is my opinion that the Gibson car that Cazz has, that you have been looking at, doesn't have a rear sway bar because the roll cage is welded into the body (which you don't have) and therefore the body has zero give. Cazz doesn't know the spring rates, as I have asked that question.

I can always take it out (the rear) as a test, but I think our cars, without the rigidity of the last Gibson car, will need some rear sway control.

JMHO of coarse!

Unfortunately, I wont have the time to put poly bushes in the rear cross member of the DR, or get them into the moustache bar, so I will be testing with rubber bushes as well.

A mate of mine's son is running an 200B sedan in Club Class with 700lb/in front & 550lb/in rear springs, along with an A bar to control the tramp, plus a panhard rod setup, plus a sway bar to boot, so I don't think spring rates have a lot to do with it.

A question for you. Is this all going into a road car of yours, or the race car in NZ?

Cheers, D

Marc,

It is my opinion that the Gibson car that Cazz has, that you have been looking at, doesn't have a rear sway bar because the roll cage is welded into the body (which you don't have) and therefore the body has zero give. Cazz doesn't know the spring rates, as I have asked that question.

I can always take it out (the rear) as a test, but I think our cars, without the rigidity of the last Gibson car, will need some rear sway control.

JMHO of coarse!

Unfortunately, I wont have the time to put poly bushes in the rear cross member of the DR, or get them into the moustache bar, so I will be testing with rubber bushes as well.

A mate of mine's son is running an 200B sedan in Club Class with 700lb/in front & 550lb/in rear springs, along with an A bar to control the tramp, plus a panhard rod setup, plus a sway bar to boot, so I don't think spring rates have a lot to do with it.

A question for you. Is this all going into a road car of yours, or the race car in NZ?

Cheers, D

road car here mate.. and im aware that cazzs car has the body mounted cage and mch extra body work.

but look around the curcits.. not at dad and daves back yard racers.. But proper race cars. many rear drive cars run soft rear ends. but again im not even begining to pretend i know what im on about but im going to try it out.. that and with the factory bar .. my car has eurathane through out but id prefer rubber i think..

Marc

im aware its hard core for road but i dont care

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nice one, I'd argue that the white S1 RS260 is certainly the best looking of the Stageas. And yes, fully agree on the forum situation. It's a bit of a shame, but at least SAU is a good place to be. I found the facebook groups to give me FOMO because people were trying to one-up each other and show off in some way. Feels much more natural here. There are people with seriously nice builds, but I can appreciate it rather than it making me question my life choices. Might be that people are more open with sharing how much work/money/suffering it takes to actually get there. 
    • Evening, wanted to pop in and finally register to say hi to everyone here on SAU!   It's been a while since I've been active on a forum, but back in the day I used to be relatively active on ClubLexus and other hobby-related forums. I'm glad to see SAU is still around, since with the advent of Facebook and Discord it seems forums aren't what they once were. As a recent new owner of an S1 260RS Stagea, I've found so many older guides and helpful tips from SAU that I figured I needed to join and say a grave thank you. My recent acquisition has only become legal in the US for the past year, and knowing that similar car enthusiasts from across the pond have already figured out the kinks and tricks to get these 25+ year old cars running well. I look forward to diving into more of the SAU forums as well as hopefully contribute some info myself for future posterity.   As a pic tax, here is one of the few good photos I have of my Stagea. I hope to get way more in the future!    
    • Is this where I say "Hey man my airbox cost me horsepower in my Naturally Aspirated Engine"? (I know you need them for legality in NSW)
    • 1.5mm alloy folded up, it will need a tweek, as the angled bend only got to around 45° as that was the max that the break press would get with the other bends, and I needed a fair bit more, but and the alloy is easy to bend too my will by hand once I trim the lower section out I'll Dremel out and form the angle and mounting point on the lower section when time permits  As for the lid, I'm looking at going a "cap", instead of a flat lid to hide the fixtures a bit
×
×
  • Create New...