Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

almost to the point of having to select brake pads for my car.

I am running porsche 6 pot front calipers on 365mm rotors and porsche 4 pot calipers on 328mm rotors rear on a 1200 KG Z32

Racing will initially be sprints and car has 350-400 RWKW

I have looked at the ferodo 3000's but dont think I can get them hot enough quick enough for them to work properly.

Pagit yellows ( I like these)

Endless ( no idea which one )

Porterfield ( no idea about these )

Project Mu ( no idea about these either)

I would prefer a softer pad with less rotor wear. Requirements are to get up to temperature FAST and have a high co-efficent of friction because the cars brakes are unboosted.

Can I have peoples thoughts on what pad material in each brand would suit me or your personal experience with what you use?

Thanks

Edited by Tektrader69

G'day mate,

I use the SBS carbon ceramic pads on my GTR - after using them on my car for the last 3 years or so I can report that they are an excellent pad for sprints. From my experience they have great bite even when not fully up to temp and I have never experienced pad fade. The rotor wear speaks for itself - I am using the std brembo brakes and std rotor sizes with DBA5000's up front and have had the same front rotors on the car for about 3 years and only now are the slots getting worn away. This is with around 8-10 track days a year plus a bit of road use.

almost to the point of having to select brake pads for my car.

I am running porsche 6 pot front calipers on 365mm rotors and porsche 4 pot calipers on 328mm rotors rear on a 1200 KG Z32

Endless ( no idea which one )

Project Mu ( no idea about these either)

Can I have peoples thoughts on what pad material in each brand would suit me or your personal experience with what you use?

Thanks

Hi Tektrader,

Which 6 pot and 4 pot Porsche calipers are you running ?

Are you running the 6 piston Motorsport Department Calipers like these ? ...

large689.jpeg

... or one of the road car calipers ?

We have a lot of knowledge about the Porsche calipers and what works in custom applications etc. There is a page here with info about using Porsche Motorsport Department Calipers in custom applications ... http://www.tunersgroup.com/porsche_brakes.html

In terms of the Project Mu pad compounds and Endless pad compounds, we have very detailed pad compounds overviews for both Project Mu pads and Endless pads on our website, particular racing and competition pads, which may be of interest to you.

Our Project Mu Pad Compounds Overview is here ...

http://www.tunersgroup.com/Products/pmu_pad_specs.html

Our Endless Pad Compounds Overview is here ...

http://www.tunersgroup.com/endless_pad_specs.html

Hope that info is helpful :P

- The Tuners Group

Those are exactly my calipers. I have been doing a fair bit of reading and are strongly leaning toward the Pagid RS14 Black

Now i have had a quick look at your site. What have you in the way of caliper adaptors for a R32 GTR that will suit these calipers? and for what size rotors?

I have managed t get a apir of 365mm Alcon rotors for a very good price and would like to use those.

lastly while I was test fitting pads the other day. There appears to be A LOT of extra width in these calipers when the pads are fitted . Looks almost enough to fit 40mm rotor in there. What is the design rotor thickness of these calipers? 32mm or 35mm ??

PICT4849.jpg

PICT4853.jpg

Edited by Tektrader69
Those are exactly my calipers.

Hi Tektrader,

Nice caliper choice - they're a beautifully engineered caliper.

You wrote above ... "I am running porsche 6 pot front calipers on 365mm rotors".

There is a version of the Porsche Motorsport Department 6 piston caliper designed for a 350 mm rotor and another version of the Porsche Motorsport Department 6 piston caliper designed for a 380 mm rotor. Are you running the caliper designed for the 380 mm rotors with a smaller diameter brake rotor ?

Do you have hats and caliper adapters designed and built to fit them to your car ?

Drop me an email to our email address listed here if you want more info about the various pad compounds available for those calipers or a general yarn about running those calipers on a GT-R and what brake rotors will work with them - we have a bunch of info on those calipers and what disk sizes they run ex-factory etc ... http://www.tunersgroup.com/Contact_Us/

- The Tuners Group

Edited by TheTunersGroup

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...