Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Reposting from the 300ZX forum:

QLD Licence changes

copypasta for those too lazy to click

A NEW licensing regime has cemented Queensland's position as one of the most costly places in the country to own a car.

Following massive increases in registration, the demise of the fuel subsidy and the looming impost of higher tolls, the Bligh Government on Wednesday unveiled big increases in licensing costs.

The spike will fund the introduction of the long-promised digital driver's licence, which has blown out from a potentially cost-neutral exercise to a $110 million system.

A five-year licence will jump in cost from the current $73.30 to $96.05 next year, and rise to $152.50 by 2014-15, putting Queensland in line with the highest-charging states.

The cost of other licence and authority cards will also skyrocket, including learner's permits, boat licences and the adult proof of age card, which will replace the 18+ card.

The new regime will add to registration rises of up to 22 per cent last year, a statewide 9.2 per cent increase in fuel prices after the subsidy was scrapped and big toll hikes from July 1.

While the Bligh Government defended the new cards and their ability to tackle fraud, the Opposition blasted the price hike.

State Transport Minister Rachel Nolan yesterday insisted the introduction of the new secure licence system was essential to fight fraud. "I don't think that anyone really believes that the old laminated licence is really an appropriate primary form of ID in 2010 and into the future," she said.

RACQ external affairs manager Gary Fites said the additional costs needed explaining but drivers would welcome the additional security.

"People are very security conscious and will see the benefit of that," Mr Fites said.

However, Opposition transport spokeswoman Fiona Simpson said motorists were again being forced to be the Bligh Government's cash cow.

"It is time for Anna Bligh and Labor to get their sticky fingers out of motorists' pockets," Ms Simpson said.

The new licence delivers on promised security improvements with biometric imaging replacing polaroid photos as well as holograms and watermarks to make duplicating the cards much more difficult.

However, the hi-tech convenience mooted to come with the card – such as paying for parking tickets – has failed to materialise with its computer chip little more than an idle accessory. Address details will still be printed on the card.

Ms Nolan conceded the card's computer chip was currently under used but available for future purposes. "We have future-proofed the card and provided a technological capacity," she said.

Police will be able to access the digital images of drivers for traffic offences and emergencies but must apply to a justice of the peace if the photo is required for other purposes.

Edited by Isola
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320495-qld-licences-to-go-all-james-bond/
Share on other sites

I understand intelligent I.D to tackle fraud, you use your drivers licence to open bank accounts. I don't get the major hike in price here...

GoCards are programmable/have data on them and cost like $5 or something. What's the extra ~$50 all about?

I understand intelligent I.D to tackle fraud, you use your drivers licence to open bank accounts. I don't get the major hike in price here...

GoCards are programmable/have data on them and cost like $5 or something. What's the extra ~$50 all about?

Cap'n bligh trying to recover all the funds she squandered.

I got my rego renewal notice yesterday and it had an add for Hyundai packaged with it. I wonder how much income that's bringing her?

Protest letter written and emailled.

http://www.thepremier.qld.gov.au/tools/contactform.aspx

I advise everyone to send their angry comments (dont swear) to this form, let anna know how hated she is.

It will only take someone to start revolution i think, someone to start a major show of unhappiness in the government right now, just to get the ball rolling, and they would be running scared.

They would never dream of governing in france like they do here, why are we so apathetic!??? they get away with this here coz we LET THEM.

whos going to lead a revolution and shut these idiots down?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...