Jump to content
SAU Community

Bosch 1600cc Indy Blue Injectors.... $130 Each

Boostn Imports
 Share

Recommended Posts

Boostn Imports Veteran

Boostn Imports

Posted
Posted

800px-Bosch-Logo_svg.png

Item(s) available via the group buy: Genuine Bosch 1600cc Indy Blue Injectors

Required number of buyers: We only need a minimum of 20 Injectors sold to get this going.

Current number of buyers:

1. sam86

2. sam86

Buyers who have paid a deposit: None as yet

Price and price conditions: $130.00 each inc GST.... But we need at least 20 injectors sold for this to go ahead

Import considerations: None needed

Insurance considerations: Can be arranged on freight for interstate buyers

Proof of Insurance: As above

Extra Info: Hey guys, we are pleased to be able to do the Bosch 1600cc Indy Blue Injectors for the cheap price of $130.00 each inc GST. Only conditions of this group buy are that we get a minimum of 20.

Pictures: bosch_1600cc_fuel_injectors.jpg

Contact Details:

Ph: Mick on 0438860307

Email: [email protected]

Location: Brisbane Northside

Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: Pickup is available or freight can be arranged for a flat rate of $10 anywhere in Aus.

post-64736-1278002292_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
RB26DEBT Community Regular

RB26DEBT

Posted
Posted

these are 14mm ones arent they.... what srt of mods would be needed to run these??

just machine out the inlets for them in ur manifold and get a 14mm fuel rail??

and i suppose idle quality will suffer a bit 2 wont it??

Boostn Imports Veteran

Boostn Imports

Posted
  • Author
Posted
these are 14mm ones arent they.... what srt of mods would be needed to run these??

just machine out the inlets for them in ur manifold and get a 14mm fuel rail??

and i suppose idle quality will suffer a bit 2 wont it??

Thats correct, they are the Genuine 14mm Blue ones that are being DISCONTINUED from Bosch, hard to get now as the White ones have replaced them..You will just need to modify your exisiting fuel rail to suit 14mm top feeds, or buy a new aftermarket fuel rail to suit.

These injectors are able to function at high fuel pressures and don't exhibit the high fuel pressure handling problems found with many high flow low-impedance injectors. This makes these injectors very well suited to turbocharged and supercharged applications that see high fuel system pressures. Frequently used in racing, flex fuel applications and alternate fuel applications, these low impedance injectors combine extremely high flow rates with excellent response at low pulse widths! This allows you to use a larger injector than normal without hurting idle and low speed driveability.

Boostn Imports Veteran

Boostn Imports

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Any reason why we would we run these over the white tops?

There really isnt much difference in the two apart from the fact that the Bosch Indy Blues are a USA Ford motorsport fitment part hence the term "Indy" and the new white model are a specialized alcohol injector with heavy pintle , a little slower than the rest.

They are pretty simliar apart from the obvious colour top difference.

  • 2 weeks later...
Boostn Imports Veteran

Boostn Imports

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Do you have to do any mods to the injector inlets on the manifold to run these?

All depends on what your fuel rail is mate.. As these are top feed injectors usually modifications are required on stock rails..

woolls Experienced

woolls

Posted
Posted
All depends on what your fuel rail is mate.. As these are top feed injectors usually modifications are required on stock rails..

I know the rail needs to be changed, Just want to know if the where they go into the runners need to be modified at all.

cheers

Boostn Imports Veteran

Boostn Imports

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I know the rail needs to be changed, Just want to know if the where they go into the runners need to be modified at all.

cheers

Na mate runners should be fine.. only the rails need modifying..

  • 2 weeks later...
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • oHBoy.
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By oHBoy. · Posted

      I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...