Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok fellas ,got are custom fmic, head has been off and fully rebuilt so like brand new, 3" full xhaust, new turbo t4/t3 highflowed vl t3 compressor (t4) and t3 exhaust wheel.It seems to develop boost from 3000 then by 3500 it may have 4-7psi and not very responsive to this then it hits about 4500 revs and then it kicks the fark out of my seat and throws me down the road!!!Now this is fun and its running 12psi but what can i actualy run on this set up considering all i have is a safc .Should i be putting more fuel into it???Can someone point me in the right direction :D marty

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32113-what-boost-can-i-run-now/
Share on other sites

Ok fellas ,got are custom fmic, head has been off and fully rebuilt so like brand new, 3" full xhaust, new turbo t4/t3  highflowed vl t3 compressor (t4) and t3 exhaust wheel.It seems to develop boost from 3000 then by 3500 it may have 4-7psi and not very responsive to this then it hits about 4500 revs and then it kicks the fark out of my seat and throws me down the road!!!Now this is fun and its running 12psi but what can i actualy run on this set up considering all i have is a safc .Should i be putting more fuel into it???Can someone point me in the right direction :)  marty

So is it a T04 Comp housing or a T03 one still???

If it's not a T04 front housing then you've got a T3 Hi-flowed. Not a T3/4.

I had a T3/4 and it hit 13psi by 4200rpm.

Get the car onto a dyno... my bet is that you'll be running out of fuel.

1) Because your fuel pump wont be upto the task.

2) The injectors wont make much more than ~200rwkw before you need to upgrade the Reg or injectors themselves anyways.

15psi...

run it rich.

my bro runs 15psi on his R33 gtst with stock internals, stock ecu, stock turbo :)

and it hits full boost at 4,500rpm spools at 2,500

I hope your brother has some cash floating around because he'll but shopping for a new turbo soon. :Bang: :Bang:

I dunno.

It's all about wheels and housings combo.

but for a hi-flowed T3 that is appalling lag, it should'nt be that laggy i reckon.

probably will be a tad more than what you had before, but not hugely.

As i said, i have a t04 comp housing, T3 rear, and i get 13psi @ 4200rpm

You had it on a dyno yet???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...