Jump to content
SAU Community

Preperation For Rb25 Rebuild

rad100

By rad100,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

rad100 Grand Master

rad100

Posted
Posted (edited)

hey all..

im planing on rebuilding my rb25det to forged internals..

the car see's track time every now and then. so want something that can handle revs etc etc.

i have read throught Nytsky's build thread and also looked at spools website and a couple of others..

now what im not sure on is what parts i need to gather before i send them and the engine off to get built..

i know pistons, rods, bolts, gaskets...

im looking at spool or nitto rods, cp pistons, genuine gasket kit, arp bolts ..

are these good? what else would i need to see my engine to be reliable at the track..

i want to have the rear oil drian.

also looking at the nitto oil pump item..

any work should be done to the head?

should i use nissan bearings or other?

and around the 350rwkw mark and possilbe e85..

and to take some revs :)

i have atm ready to go on, plazmaman plenum, tomei poncams, splitfires, gt3076 .82 with ext gate, nistune ecu, z32, rb26 rocker covers and mines cam baffles, cam gears..

any further info/advice would be good..

Edited by rad32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321836-preperation-for-rb25-rebuild/
Share on other sites
rad100 Grand Master

rad100

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

was also thinking of doing what my mate did..

specs:

Fully balanced

Arp main studs

Arp head studs

Acl bearings

Acl 1.2mm head gasket

Ross/acl pistons

Argo rods

Adj cam gears

its really all the small stuff like oil restrictors, head porting, harmonic balancers etc..

just want it all safe for the track.

Edited by rad32
TiTAN Grand Master

TiTAN

Posted
Posted

ATI or Ross harmonic balancer

Larger sump

Oil feed restrictors x2

Extended oil pump drive

New water pump

If you haven't already you should look into larger radiators and oil coolers for reliability on the track.

that being said if the current engine still works why fix what isnt broken.

rad100 Grand Master

rad100

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeh i have oil cooler and relo kit and aloy rad..

engine is fine but im looking at slowly starting a collection of parts so when i does come time for a rebuild i have everything here and instead of paying 10k at once ill only have to pay for labour..

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted

If you aren't sure about e85 yet don't buy injectors.

Once you decide what fuel to use, buy them then.

For everything else if you do a search around you'll see it's pretty much all been covered before.

NYTSKY's list would be a good place to start

rad100 Grand Master

rad100

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah i have 740cc already...

and yeh his list is good but he wasnt tracking the car from what i could see..

so if there is anything else i would need ontop of his to help with a track scenario..

rad100 Grand Master

rad100

Posted
  • Author
Posted

so my mates engine i posted up, from what i read all i would need to change would be the pistons and rods to a stronger unit for higher revs and add a blancer, sump and oil restrictors..

sound about right?

FineLine Grand Master

FineLine

Posted
Posted

From my experience you will be pushing shit uphill with that turbo to make that sort of grunt.

Make sure you use good valve springs, Port match everything in your airflow system from the throttle body to the dump.

Balance every rotating part to within an inch of its life. oversize exhaust valves and a decent valve cut.

GL with it mate.

Red R Racing Apprentice

Red R Racing

Posted
Posted (edited)
From my experience you will be pushing shit uphill with that turbo to make that sort of grunt.

Make sure you use good valve springs, Port match everything in your airflow system from the throttle body to the dump.

Balance every rotating part to within an inch of its life. oversize exhaust valves and a decent valve cut.

GL with it mate.

Red R are building it Noel, they have already built a couple of RB25's recently that have made this power with that turbocharger on E85 or race fuel.

One of them saw over 3 bar of boost for two laps due to a blown off wastegate hose which would have also ran it very lean and the owner admits to "giving it an absolute caning" with no engine trouble at all.

Im sure it will be quite well built. :cheers: Paul does not cut any corners as he, being a drag racer, is still not aware what a corner even is.

Edited by Red R Racing

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ARB26
      RB26DETT Sketchy boost mod?

      By ARB26 · Posted

      So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Gareth87
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By Gareth87 · Posted

      Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • MBS206
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • GTSBoy
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • GTSBoy
      RB26DETT Sketchy boost mod?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...