Jump to content
SAU Community

Nsw (penrith) >> Rb30d (rb26/30) Up For Sale


Recommended Posts

Up for sale is my RB30D long motor.

smallEngineisfinallyhome.jpg

SmallRB30inneedofsomecovers.jpg

SmallRB30backfromtheenginebuilder.jpg

smallRB3026inletside.jpg

I had this built at MRC Dyno services in Castle Hill planning to put it into my R31. Unfortunately funds dried up and my wife and I are expecting our first child in September and I'm looking to start a new business so my plans of building an epic R31 will have to remain a dream for now.

I've looked high and low but I'm still missing the first and last invoices for $1500 and more than $2000 respectively, I will keep looking for these over the next few days.

I bought the RB26 head for $1200 and it came with adjustable HKS cam gears and cams. I cannot confirm the model numbers or the specs of the cams but they did have HKS on them, I asked the engine builder to measure them but he forgot.

18may09page1.jpg

18may09page2.jpg

The block is an A8 (VL turbo) block, static compression is set to 8.8:1 (fairly high compaired to a lot of 26/30's) and the conrods have been linished and shot peened. The motor is 'zeroed' and ready for completion.

Parts included:

inlet plenum

multiple throttle bodies

HKS inlet gaskets (throttle chamber gaskets)

HKS exhaust gaskets

Not included:

a few nuts and bolts (including 6 cam gear bolts)

flywheel

no computer or electrics

no looms

no exhaust manifold

most AAC stuff (hoses, aac valve, air chamber, etc) see image below:

AAC.jpg

In its current state, it would ideally suit someone with an RB26 looking to upgrade or swap out a blown RB26 or anyone willing to spend the time chasing up the bits (a lot of the missing bits people seem to bin when they strip their motors, you've just got to find someone before they throw them away - SAU would be a good hang out for this)

This motor and my plans for it were mentioned in my build thread if you want more back ground info:

http://motamota.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=89517.45

I've spent close to $12,000 in total.

No offers below $9,500, my loss is your gain.

Brad Griffiths

a.k.a Griffo

[email protected]

0420 581 655 call between 10:00AM and 9:00PM

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
will you be in penrith next year? i saw this on drn a while ago

I'm currently looking for work on the outside as the business is taking too long to get up and running. I haven't been posted so if I don't find a job, I'll be there.

cheers,

Griffo

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, The dog bone wont have much to do with this - the calliper applies a load about the disc - the outside of the calliper is more flexible than the inside by virtue of it not haveing the big torqued down bolts, additional metal structure on the caliper itself, and mostly not being cantilevered. So the outside of the calliper is pushing away as its more bendy and brining the inside with it as an equal pressure on both sides of the caliper looks to cause more flex on the outside - which makes sense. I have done this same thing with the calliper unbolted from the dog bone - same thing happens. Although id have to watch more carefully to see how much more the outside moves than the inside in this case. Im guessing there is a point in the pedals travel where the pressure is not actually increasing in the system - its just volumne displacemnt - and because the outside of the calliper is more flexy, it receives that volume. Have gone back to Alcon again - but beyond a resolution there I would stay clear of this calliper and possibly any of the lighweight type of callipers - especially if you have the smaller 15/16" master cylinder. Cheers.
    • Yes, you can very clearly see from more than one angle that it is the whole caliper moving left-right, not deformation of the caliper. The top moves, the bottom moves. Equally. It should be possible to see where the movement is occurring. Just need to look more closely.
    • Hi Folks, my 2009 Skyline 370GT “Crossover” wagon is losing water and has been diagnosed as needing a water pump replacement (it’s an internal timing-chain driven unit, not the usual electric type that seems to be used across many manufacturers). Am looking for any repairer recommendations in the Sydney /Wollongong region who can be trusted and are experienced in this sort of work on the VQ 36 engine. Many thanks….Bill
    • While all of the above makes sense, we're not talking about some Ling Long calipers of AliExpress; Alcon would have to be one of the top 5 caliper suppliers in the world and these are not their budget units. If there were manufacturing defects in the caliper causing this issue I'd be very disappointed. Having re-watched the video a few times I think it's dog bone/mount related. The caliper moves independently to the rest of the suspension and brake assembly which suggests to me that it's not mounted rigidly. I know this sounds stupid, but have you got enough thread on the retaining bolts or are they a poofteenth too long and it's not super tight? For axial movement to be occurring without deforming the caliper that can be the only answer.
    • Extra torque will wear it out. The clutches won't be to the same spec as those on the turbo box, and the shift speeds possibly won't suit handling more torque either. Autos in R34s are a nightmare. 8HP conversion is the only sensible option.
×
×
  • Create New...