Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, as most of you may know, on the registration sticker will have the word 'Tare' on it, followed by the weight of the vehicle (Obviously rounded off to the nearest 10).

Tare = The weight of a vehicle without cargo, passengers, etc.

From my experience, when i was looking for R32s (GTS-T), i always checked the registered tare out of curiosity, and this ranged from 1280 to 1380. According to http://www.motortraders.net/imports/home.asp it should be 1320. My questions are, is this number actually accurate? and why do they range so much?

Edited by TyresBro
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323611-tare/
Share on other sites

the numbers vary because of different spec (also different publications may say different weight due to differing scale accuracy). for example in later model cars where airbags and abs are options you will be looking at a rather large weight difference between models with and without. also sunroofs will alter the weight of the car too. even the wheels you have on the car will alter the weight.

i would take those numbers as a rough guide. even if you put your car on a weigh bridge i wouldn't take that weight as being the exact weight of the car as there will be a margin of error. even a 1% error on something as heavy as a car can be 10 to 15kg.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323611-tare/#findComment-5275524
Share on other sites

Yeah that's funny because my friend got an Impreza recently and according to Redbook (wouldn't put my life on it because look at the 0-100km/h time, obviously mistaken form a WRX, but it's rough figures) it's supposed to be 1150kg but his tare reads exactly 1000kg so that was an amazing variance. (Yes he has sunroof as well)

http://www.redbook.com.au/used-cars/detail...id=12905877E689

Edited by TyresBro
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323611-tare/#findComment-5275777
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Yes the gear for the R33/34 is different, it is red and has a different number of teeth. My part didn't come with that gear though, so I don't know how many teeth are on the red one. You'd have to reuse the 260RS/R33 gear, as long as it's not destroyed.   Haha, as unfortunate as that might be it was working fine for about the first 1500km I've had the car for now.
    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
×
×
  • Create New...