Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I own a mr30 sedan and have my eye on some patrol 2.8 petrol extractors from a local wrecker and was just wondering if some1 could please tell me the amount I need to bring the flange back to make them fit.

I also scored a pair of s1 red on red hotplates for it for free from a friend who wrote his off they have a chunk missing right at the top of the left one and i wouldnt worry as its hardly noticable when on the car but they get water behind, I was just wondering if anyone knows what i could repair this with doesnt have to look that great as i want them in more to make sure i like that style before tracking a good cond set down.

Thanks in advance,

Paul.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327439-r30-extractors-and-hotplate-q/
Share on other sites

flange wont need modification. the last bend before the pipes go rear-ward will maybe need bending. (just depends, not every set out there is the same. there are a few manufacturers)

clear lexan/perspex or whetever the lights are made of is very hard to repair properly. most adhesives and epoxy will make the inside go all foggy and shit. your best bet is to just use the Aus lights, hotplates arent that special (car wont go any faster)

thanks for the replay mag86 are thats even easier to just get it bent to fit looked at mine properly i dont have the flange their anymore anyway my engine pipe has just been expanded at the end and welded straight to my 2.5' exhaust, I might just have a play with the lights, i have some plastics that might work.

If your trying to repair the lights, like just cracks, get some MEK and that will fuse the plastic together. If you cant get that, superglue is your only option and as Mags said, anything you use is going to create a frosting effect anywhere you put it and the end result will be VERY ordinary, but there is light at the end of the tunnel.

As you have S1 lights, that's all red, maybe you could consider colour coding the outer red zone and then nobody would be any the wiser and the light area would only be the visible red.

Just a thought that might get your problem solved.

Cheers, D

As you have S1 lights, that's all red, maybe you could consider colour coding the outer red zone and then nobody would be any the wiser and the light area would only be the visible red.

Just a thought that might get your problem solved.

Cheers, D

Thanks Dan didnt think of colour coding the whole light will give it a go lights didnt cost me anything so i have nothing to loose.

  • 2 weeks later...
Hi,

I own a mr30 sedan and have my eye on some patrol 2.8 petrol extractors from a local wrecker and was just wondering if some1 could please tell me the amount I need to bring the flange back to make them fit.

I also scored a pair of s1 red on red hotplates for it for free from a friend who wrote his off they have a chunk missing right at the top of the left one and i wouldnt worry as its hardly noticable when on the car but they get water behind, I was just wondering if anyone knows what i could repair this with doesnt have to look that great as i want them in more to make sure i like that style before tracking a good cond set down.

Thanks in advance,

Paul.

Paul,

You might be interested in these?

The left appears ok with a chip out of the right so you could end up with a good set for a little money.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/DR30-tailights-RARE...=item3caef398c5

Cheers, D

I've seen those lights in person, i've been to that guys place to get some R31 Ti rims.

They looked fine to me, Chip is quite small 2cmish.

2cm sounds like a fair-sized chip. That's big enough to be called a chunk. Right-hand tail light looks a bit odd in the eBay pic, centre line doesn't seem straight.

JH

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • If by axles you mean driveshafts, they're supposed to have play in them. They are not hard to recondition, it's just pulling apart the cv's, cleaning them and regreasing, fit new boots. I've only rebuilt one set and there was fk-all wear in them, still running just fine 8 years later.
    • Note, the aluminium bit that screws in the end that you have to remove to dismantle the rack is single use as it's punch-marked, it will strip when you unscrew it, and then you have to flatten the notch in the steel rack body, screw in a new aluminium end when rebuilding, then punch-mark it again once assembled. it is also 'somewhat tricky' to refit the rack>steering wheel linkage gear as it needs to be set to the right preloads etc. A rebuild is probably something that's better just given to a steering shop for a couple of hundred, unless you're mad-keen to do it yourself. 
    • Do you have the workshop Manuel? Sorry that's a Spanish waiter...I mean, manual? Some relevant pages>
    • How much have you lowered?  I had 350Z springs in the rear and was able to pull the camber into factory spec with the factory arms on the rear, obviously the front ran negative camber as it isn't adjustable, but rotating the wheels regularly evened out the wear.
×
×
  • Create New...