Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Up for sale is my pride and joy 98 R34 GT-T. Only selling due to change in careers and not needing to sell in a rush.

Tastefully modified with quality brands and serviced regularly. This car has been my daily for the last 2.5 years and has always been reliable and never had any major problems with it.

I bought this car practically stock and have made minor modifications to it over the past 2.5 years. This car attracts looks everywhere it goes and will not disappoint to serious buyer.

Mods:

1998 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T

RB25DET Neo Manual

Black

145000 kms. Is due for an oil change and will do this before selling to buyer.

All fluids are drained every 5000-7500 km's and replaced with quality brands, engine, gearbox and diff.

ORIGINAL Tommy Kiara Front Bar (fibreglass) this is an original bar, not a copy and is worth around $3000 direct for Japan so I have been told.

GT-R skirts and rear pods have been modified and fitted to the car and suit the Tommy Kiara front bar very well and makes the car have the flow look.

Starcorp Racing Impul Rims, 18 x 8.5 Front, 18 x 9.5 Rear. Front tyres are in good condition, around 80% tread left, rears are brand new, less than 100 km's old. Fronts are 225/40/18 and rears are 235/40/18.

Rear left rim has some very minor gutter rash.

25mm bolt on spacers are fitted to the front and 20mm bolt on spacers are fitted to the rear, guards have had a slight roll to tuck tyres at the rear, paint has not been damaged as it is only a slight roll. Front did not need and modifying, they only rub on full lock up a driveway. This could be fixed with more stretch run in the front or plastic inners removed from front guards.

Strut Brace fitted, unsure of brand

Rear guards rolled

6000k HIDs are installed on car, factory 3500k bulbs were very dull

Clear side indicators

JJR Cooling Pro FMIC, front bar has been modified slightly to accommodate the FMIC, keeping that standard look.

HKS Pod Filter – secured with a steel bracket

Spitfire Coilpacks

HKS EVC Boost Controller (currently not fitted in car but will come with sale)

HKS Hypermax Coilovers (Height and Damper Adjustable)

Excedy Heavy Duty clutch, no slip, fitted around 10000 km's ago.

JJR 3inch bellmouth front/dump pipe from turbo

3inch Catco Racing CAT

3.5inch HKS Cat Back Xhorst System with 4inch cannon (all HKS)

Pioneer head unit

Standard Front speakers (I think)

Tweeters

Standard Rear Speaks (I think)

Pioneer Amp and Sub in Boot

Genuine Nismo front and rear floor mats (+10rwkw)

Factory Tints 5% in rear and 20% in driver and passenger windows

Interior is all factory and in excellent condition with no rips, tears or stains

All factory gauges are in working condition

Standard Parts that will come with sale.

Will not separate or sell separately, car will be sold as a whole and with all standard parts.

T Drift Wing (not fitted to car)

Standard GTT Rims, Bronze colour goes well with Black car - needs new rubber.

Standard Airbox

Standard Snorkel

Standard Side Mount Intercooler and all original piping

Standard Full Xhorst System

Car has been EPA'd and passed about 6-8 months ago first time (have papers to prove)

Everything that was taken out of the car to pass EPA has been refitted (except the boost controller, just needs re-wiring) if this car was to be EPA'd again you would have no problems with passing it first time.

Rego up in Feb 2011.

Car is currently running standard boost.

I'm sure there are a few things that I have left out but I cannot think of right now. Car is located in Sydney - Sutherland Shire area so please don't hesitate to contact me for more details or to inspect on the following: 0403 889 563 - Kyle.

Being that this car is black and hard to keep clean it will not be washed and detailed for every inspection, full detail will be done for new owner. As mentioned above, I'm in no rush to sell this car so keep the offer reasonable.

Please note that nobody will driver this car until a healthy deposit has been taken first, no time wasters and tyre kickers.

If I don't answer, send me a text and I'll ring you back as soon as I can.

Willing to negotiate on price with serious buyer - I'm looking around the $21,000 mark ono.

Thanks for looking! Cheers - Kyle 0403 889 563.

Will update at a later stage with some pictures as I'm waiting for the bloody rain to piss off to take some. Send me a text with your email address and I can email pictures also.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/330822-98-r34-gtt-for-sale/
Share on other sites

Yeh mate AHHH i have been doing a little bit of tyre kicking the last couple of days and ahhh i would like to do an inspection on da car just to see if it is what u say it is mate ahhhh i was also wondering dose it come with a rear wing and also dose it come with a woofer becoz when i take the car for a test drive i want to pump the sounds and see if da chick look at me if they doooo mate ahh we have a deal at 20 grand if not mate ahh i will have to do a little bit of tyre kicking on your car mate but becoz i have to drive a distace to see it it wont be just the tyres im kicking mate possable a panel or 2 and if u get a little smart mate i will have to kick u to mate ahhh i will meet u at mascot kirspy kream at 10 30 pm est on the 10/8/2010 mate thank you may god be with u ADONIS.

Price drop to $19500, all standard parts included. Above post will be ignored no time wasters, all SERIOUS offers considered. Thanks

very nicely modded 34.

just wondering, would you happen to know the offsets of the wheels not incl the spacers

not too sure on the exact offsets of the wheels (think maybe +35?? front and rear), shitty offset but so that's why i'm running the spacers. These wheels do clear the brakes front and rear without spacers but not the look I was after. Are u interested? Make an offer!

Cheers

YEH mate ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh i will come and get the car this sunday mate ahh when i get there i will have some cash but nothing around 18000 mate ahh i will be telling u the price u will take it not leave it mate ah im a no tyre kicker please feel free to contact me on 1800 224 554 the name is Spero Caramitsus god bless ..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...