Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey. Just wondering if my clutch might be going shortly or not? It squeaks most times and the release point in the pedal is very high.

Anything to worry about?

Also can someone post a link to the thread about the air con control lights and how to change them please? I cant seem to find it (even through search bar).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331946-squeaking-clutch/
Share on other sites

if it squeaks when you push the pedal in then it could be 1 of 2 issues. 1 is the bracket where the pedal mounts under they dash. the other is the pivot bolt inside the gearbox. the first issue is the easiest to check and fix. the second is relatively easy to check, but much harder to fix as the gearbox has to come out

if the pivot bolt is damaged in anyway then the next time you press the clutch pedal may be the last before it gives out and you lose all use of the clutch. when mine broke i pushed the clutch in and it felt funny, so i let it up and did it again. it still felt funny. i let my foot up and the pedal got nearly all the way back out before it shot to the floor. i could pull it back up by hand but the clutch didn't work.

I had the same issue on my old R33. It was the clutch fork which needed to be lubricated.

Squeaky when pressing and releasing, very annoying. Grabbed a can of motorbike chain grease and sprayed in the plastic flap where the fork is located. Annoying problem solved and cost me $6 to fix =)

  • 1 month later...

bunny-thread-relevant-to-my-interests.jpg

if it squeaks when you push the pedal in then it could be 1 of 2 issues. 1 is the bracket where the pedal mounts under they dash. the other is the pivot bolt inside the gearbox. the first issue is the easiest to check and fix. the second is relatively easy to check, but much harder to fix as the gearbox has to come out

Mine has a squeaking sound audible from outside the car, which isn't all to audible for me but I don't like it being there :P

I'm assuming it's the pivot bolt. Where abouts should I look for that and do I need to take the gearbox out to greese it up?

you can fix the squeaking pivot bolt without removing the gearbox. you simply spray something like a spray grease in through the opening around where the clutch fork goes into the gearbox.

WD40 sounds like it'll do the trick :P

I had a mechanic do that on my Excel once but the squeaking soon redeveloped.

Is a lack of lubricant the only thing causing the squeak?

yeah it is. also wd40 is too thin, so the noise will come back after a few weeks/months. something thicker like a spray grease, motorbike chain lube, or even just a blob of grease on the end of a long screw driver (and then a small piece of wire to work it into the right area) will be better than wd40. wd40 isn't really a very good lubricant.

yeah it is. also wd40 is too thin, so the noise will come back after a few weeks/months. something thicker like a spray grease, motorbike chain lube, or even just a blob of grease on the end of a long screw driver (and then a small piece of wire to work it into the right area) will be better than wd40. wd40 isn't really a very good lubricant.

Any specific type of lube you recommend? I'll pop into supercheap or something on the way home.

  • 1 month later...
if you go to advanced search and search for posts about the pivot bolt and my name you'll find a pic i posted about it

Thanks Hugh. I haven't had a chance to do it recently, and I went to do it the other night and it wouldn't make the sound (it's a bit hard to work out where the sounds coming from when the sound isn't being made :whistling: )

If I get home by a reasonable hour tonight, I'll have a look...

For future Googlers

here is the picture. the pivot bolt is about 2 inches in behind that soft bit.

the picture is taken from the drivers side. if you stick your head under the car just behind the front wheel that is what you'll see.

post-70785-1291067039_thumb.jpg

Edited by SKITTLES
Thanks Hugh. I haven't had a chance to do it recently, and I went to do it the other night and it wouldn't make the sound (it's a bit hard to work out where the sounds coming from when the sound isn't being made :blink: )

If I get home by a reasonable hour tonight, I'll have a look...

For future Googlers

Further noting, it's on the drivers side of the gearbox, there's a medium, square rubber grommet... just pull it out on one side and move it out of the way.

I sprayed some WD40 in and it fixed it.. but give it a week and it'll come back..

What part in particular am I supposed to lube??

What should I be straining to look for? I can only really see a black single bolt.

you should see the clutch fork sitting on that bolt. that bolt has a mushroom shaped head on it and the clutch fork pivots on that. you need to lube up the top of the pivot bolt. you just have to spray a heap of lube onto the area and then continuously push on the clutch to work it into where it needs to be

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

sorry to dig up and old thread but im a little confused.

My clutch squeaks when i press and release it and im trying to diagnose why.

I'm looking under the dash to find the bracket that may] need greasing up but im not sure where exactly i should be greasing.

post-82442-0-51532500-1305540476_thumb.jpg

where should i be lubricating??

any help would be greatly appreciated!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...