Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone apologies if this has been asked but ive searched and had a bit of conflicting info!!

Ive got a 2005 Manual Coupe and im wondering how i find out if its a rev up or not.

Some infomation ive found is you can tell by the redline. 6500 - Non Rev Up 7000 - Rev Up. Well my redline is 6800 :P

Also on my dash ive got Rev illuminated,which some sites have said this is only on rev up motors,but some say its just for a shift change light.

Im looking at buying a supercharger from the states and would appreciate someone with a bit more knowledge than me to confirm and if ill have any problems with the kit.

Thanks in advance

Spenny

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332350-rev-up-or-not-rev-up/
Share on other sites

Thanks guys!!

Just one last question then. The guy selling the supercharger says his is for a non revup. Is there any difference in ours to the states in terms of fitting a supercharger???

Thanks again

I believe that the answer you are looking for is in the engine designation prefix, i.e. VQ35DE - non rev-up and VQ35HR being the rev-up version, HR standing for high rev.

p.s. This is only a theory of mine, so if I'm wrong can someone please correct me. :woot:

Hi Thanks for the quick replies.

Im looking at a procharger kit!! Any feedback is appreciated as im still unsure what way to go.

Thanks

Spenny

It should fit, but with Procharger just be aware that it's going to be really loud and whiney. If you're OK with that then it's also reputed to have very good power potential. The other thing to make sure of is that you have proper control of timing and fuel. In order to get a safe and reliable set-up you will also need injectors (480cc minimum) and a fuel pump.

Some kits come with split-timing boxes and do the extra fuelling with an extra injector in the intake tract. Not ideal but it can work...sometimes. Anyway good luck with your install, supercharged VQs are heaps of fun...

Also on my dash ive got Rev illuminated,which some sites have said this is only on rev up motors,but some say its just for a shift change light.

It has taken me a year and a half and I only just discovered the shift light on the weekend. It has always been set at 8000 and therefore has never lit up, so after filling with fuel and resetting my trip, I tried to work out what the 8,000 things was. Messed around and managed to change it to 2000 thinking it was some sort of service interval setting and drove off only to find the light start flashing at 1500 and solid at 2000.

It was pretty exciting there for a few minutes, now I've set it back to 6000 and probably wont see it again for 6 months :blink:

Yeah i found it too,i think i lasted 5 gear changes and i was changing it back to 6000 also. Wish i could get rid of the rev illuminated.

It has taken me a year and a half and I only just discovered the shift light on the weekend. It has always been set at 8000 and therefore has never lit up, so after filling with fuel and resetting my trip, I tried to work out what the 8,000 things was. Messed around and managed to change it to 2000 thinking it was some sort of service interval setting and drove off only to find the light start flashing at 1500 and solid at 2000.

It was pretty exciting there for a few minutes, now I've set it back to 6000 and probably wont see it again for 6 months :action-smiley-069:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I will rebutt this and the preceding point from Dose....but without doing any calcs to demonstrate anything and without knowing that I am right or wrong. But... The flow capacity of a fluid transfer system is not limited by the smallest orifice or section of conduit in that system, unless it is drastically smaller than the rest of the system. OK, I use the word drastically perhaps with too much emphasis, but let's drill down on what I really mean. The flow capacity of the system is the result of the sum of the restrictions of the entire system. So, to make an extreme example, if you have a network with 3" pipe everywhere (and let's say a total length of only a few metres) and that 12mm ID restriction of the oil filter connection being the obvious restriction, then for any given amount of pressure available, the vast majority of all the pressure drop in the system is going to occur in the 12mm restriction. But.... increase the length of the 3" pipeline to, say 1000m, and suddenly the pipe pressure loss will likely add up to either be in the same order of magnitude, possibly even exceeding that of the 12mm restriction. Now the 12mm restriction starts to matter less. Translate this to the actual engine, actual oil cooler hose sizing, etc etc, and perhaps: The pressure loss caused by flowing through the narrow section (being the 12mm oil filter port, and perhaps any internal engine oil flow pathways associated with it) is a certain number. The pressure loss through, say, -12 hoses out to the cooler and back is negligible, but The pressure loss through -10 hoses out to the cooler, at the exact same length as the above, starts to become a decent fraction of the loss through the 12mm stuff at the filter port. Maybe even it starts to exceed it. I could actually do these calcs if I knew 1) how much oil was actually flowing in the line, 2) gave enough of a f**k to do things that I hate doing for work, voluntarily for a hypothetical discussion. Anyway - I reiterate. It's not the narrowest port that necessarily determines how much it can all flow. It is the sum. A long enough length of seemingly fat enough pipe can still cause more loss than a semmingly dominant small bore restriction.
    • To pick up what Dose is putting down. Not a lot of point running a huge hose if the motor is still restricted to the smaller size... It's only capable of flowing so much at that point...   *Waits for GTSBoy to come in and bring in the technicalities of length of pipe, and additional restriction from wall friction etc etc*
    • Hooley Dooley these things have some history! If i sell them they will need a certificate of providence to prove they have been in the hands of verified RB20 royalty! They have been stored in a plastic tub, away from sunlight and moisture. They are in mint condition. And they will stay that way, as i have sprung the money for a set of shockworks coilovers. I'm just working on getting them in at the moment, after rebushing the rear of the car, and while the subframe was out i welded in the GKtech reinforcement bracing as well.  They will get a workout at Ararat King of The Hill in November. I ran 48s on the short course there a few months ago, and i am hoping with new bushes and shocks in the rear i can launch a bit harder. There was a fair bit of axle tramp when i tried too hard off the line. a few of the corners had dips mid way which also made the car feel a bit unsettled, hopefully this will help there too.   
    • Food for thought, the stock oil filter thread is a 3/4-16 UNF, which has an ID of about 10 to 12mm (according to ChatGPT lol). Now compare than to an 10AN, which has an ID of about 14mm (Raceworks is 14.2mm, Speed flow is 14.27mm).  
    • Yep, totally get that. However hooking in for Generator back up is only a few hundred bucks for the wiring. You could put a couple of those in (for different circuits explicitly) and run a couple of baby generators. Bonus, you can balance them across different circuits, and now have backups in your backup. I'm looking at buying places that won't even have water etc, and I don't mind the idea of getting off the electric grid either, even with everything you've said. This country already has enough power outages that even the mains grid isn't that reliable anymore. I do agree though on spending a bit more to get better gear, and to add some extra redundancy in to the system too.
×
×
  • Create New...