Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im a noob i know, but i was wondering if anybody knows how much thrashing this gearbox can take whilst in triptronic. Im a weary of using it to much because i dont want to break anything, since transmission repairs are just nasty,, and im always paranoid something will happen to it, everybody is always warning me its not a manual so dont treat it like one, are they right or can a NA trip take the pressure of Red line gear shifting, i want to track it in 6 months you see.

I don't drive my car hard much. But yes it can handle shifting at the redline - eg. when doing an overtaking manuver.

For track/circuit stuff a manual is a better bet - however if you want to use an auto (I imagine your car is your daily too?) - I'd recommend at a minimum getting a trans cooler and ensuring you are running Castrol Transmax Z

Maybe you will have to get better transmission bands and some entry level shift kit.

I see, i guess i would need to play with the transmission a bit if i want to keep up with the Evo's on the track ( highly doubt it though). Its just something my unlce and his friend have phsyced me up for, one owns a Series 4 RX7 i think it is, and my uncle a 350 hp falcon, some other guys i know that will be going have 180sx and Cortina's. So yeah if i can get my car performing well in about 6 months it should be a fun day, its 1999 2 door, its a stocker though, which is cool i can mod it to my tastes.

Woulda thought the autos would be more durable than manuals (reason why some top level Fords/Holdens have auto, because too much torque, so i'm told anyways) due to the torque being distributed better in auto boxes without the clutch and stick. Never heard of auto boxes breaking unless you were playing with the auto selector a lot.

Woulda thought the autos would be more durable than manuals (reason why some top level Fords/Holdens have auto, because too much torque, so i'm told anyways) due to the torque being distributed better in auto boxes without the clutch and stick. Never heard of auto boxes breaking unless you were playing with the auto selector a lot.

This is mainly true for drag racing....

Circuit and drift - manual is the way to go

Not to say to totally rule out auto for circuit (for the sake of going out there and having a good time) - however supprting mods for reliability is a must.

  • 1 month later...
This is mainly true for drag racing....

Circuit and drift - manual is the way to go

Not to say to totally rule out auto for circuit (for the sake of going out there and having a good time) - however supprting mods for reliability is a must.

manual is defs he way to go for track!! i took my 34 on track at winton with the auto trans using triptronic.. they are really slow to change back down when uve got ur revs up. it took about 3 secs (no exageration) to downhift from 3rd to 2nd gear at a coulple of turns and i tell u what its scary when it does that!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...