Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have the following items that have been removed from my R32 GTR for sale:

1 x Passenger side seat and rail ($230)

1 x Drivers side seat and rail ($150 seat has a tear)

2 x Door cards (both driver and passenger sides $100 each)

1 x Roof trim (needs to be cleaned $80)

1 x Hicas pump (was working before it was removed $100)

1 x Standard fuel tank (no fuel pump $150)

1 x Walbro 255 LPH/550hp fuel pump (has only been used to prime fuel rail vehicle was never fired with this fuel pump $120)

1 x GTR wing (needs to be repainted $100)

1 x ABS unit (needs a clean was working before it was removed $250)

1 x Standard radiator (has a few bent fins $70)

6 x Standard 440cc injectors ($300)

2 x Standard R32 Turbos ($400)

1 x Front bar (slight damage, front bar mounts fine, the lip just hangs down a little in the centre, its repairable $150)

any inspection welcome, all prices negotiable, im located in Banyo, Brisbane

pm me any questions

post-74123-1282205189_thumb.jpg

post-74123-1282205200_thumb.jpg

post-74123-1282205210_thumb.jpg

post-74123-1282205223_thumb.jpg

post-74123-1282205230_thumb.jpg

post-74123-1282205244_thumb.jpg

post-74123-1282205253_thumb.jpg

post-74123-1282205260_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333563-r32-gtr-seats-and-turbos/
Share on other sites

Why in brisbane arhhhh will you post front bar?

i would prefer not to send it, just because it is damaged,

however i do have a new front bar coming next week, and i could put it in that box and send it down to you

i couldnt find the screws to put the lip on the front bar, the only damage to it, is the plastic clips that hold the centre of the lip up,

3 of them are brocken so the lip hangs down a little in the centre, it hangs down less than an inch

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
    • Not sure yet.  Was considering speedtek because it was rated to 800hp, but when I did some research about him I don't think I will go for that🤣 So maybe giken gear set, but I'm afraid it won't be strong enough🙄
×
×
  • Create New...