Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Pretty sure I need new brake pads and rotors, but Im now getting a terrible grinding sound occasionally coming from the brakes when Im turning without applying any brakes..

Had a look and you can see there is definantly strange wear on the left and right sides - the rears are fine.

Im thinking a wheel bearing might be gone, but I cant physically wobble the wheels with my hands..

Any ideas?

Passenger Front.

photofr.jpg

Drivers front

photo2do.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333884-brakes-help-needed/
Share on other sites

oh, I fuxked up all my pads and the rear rotors today at wakefield. Anyone know what pads will be good for the track?

My V35 is an automatic without brembo. Thanks for anyhelp=)

I did just the same thing @ QR about 2 weeks ago except I managed to crack my RDA slotted discs at the front as well

Just replaced with DBA 4000 slotted up front with Ferodo DS2500 pads

Using DBA street series blank discs on the back with Hawk ceramic pads

Also did a fluid flush and replaced with Motul 600 fluid

Bring on the next wednesday arvo sprint!

I did just the same thing @ QR about 2 weeks ago except I managed to crack my RDA slotted discs at the front as well

Just replaced with DBA 4000 slotted up front with Ferodo DS2500 pads

Using DBA street series blank discs on the back with Hawk ceramic pads

Also did a fluid flush and replaced with Motul 600 fluid

Bring on the next wednesday arvo sprint!

Mind sharing where you get them and what's the price?

will those blank discs at the back works well on the track, I got the 4000 slotted on the front, they works sublime.

but those OEM back rotors are all fuxked up.

So what I am concerning is will those blank discs = oem blank discs?

and whats the price you get it?

and the DS 2500 as well?

thanks =)

I didn’t go slotted on the rear for a few reasons

1. The guy who dose my brakes wasn’t able to get any slotted discs for a week and my rears "back left in particular" were shagged due to the pads being worn out and having metal on metal run groves in the discs

2. 70% of the hard work is done by the fronts

3. Slotting doesn’t actually do that much, its more about helping gasses from the pad escape and most new pads don’t have that problem

4. A better pad will have a much more noticeable difference than a slotted/drilled disc

So with that in mind and the new rear pads being ceramic = handles heat better. I didn’t see the need for slotted on the rear

I didint shop around with the pads price, I didint have the time to and could not be funked. My brakes were only working about 30% of what they were before I went to the track and I needed to get them fixed ASAP

Anyhow I ended up paying $277 for the DS2500 pads for the front $150 for the Hawks on the rear

I have used DS2500 pads on my old 180sx in the past which had R33 4 pot calipers/discs on the front. Compared to the 1st set of pads which were probally OEM nissan ones despite the brakes being fairly large given the weight of the car. I had fade after only 2 laps, after I changed to the DS2500 I could go the whole session 6 hot laps and not have any problems.

There is a sweet spot but when it comes to pads, if you fit pads that are too heat orieanted then they dont work as well when they are cold. The DS2500 for me work fine when cold but get better when theres some heat in them

Thanks for the information=)

I didn’t go slotted on the rear for a few reasons

1. The guy who dose my brakes wasn’t able to get any slotted discs for a week and my rears "back left in particular" were shagged due to the pads being worn out and having metal on metal run groves in the discs

2. 70% of the hard work is done by the fronts

3. Slotting doesn’t actually do that much, its more about helping gasses from the pad escape and most new pads don’t have that problem

4. A better pad will have a much more noticeable difference than a slotted/drilled disc

So with that in mind and the new rear pads being ceramic = handles heat better. I didn’t see the need for slotted on the rear

I didint shop around with the pads price, I didint have the time to and could not be funked. My brakes were only working about 30% of what they were before I went to the track and I needed to get them fixed ASAP

Anyhow I ended up paying $277 for the DS2500 pads for the front $150 for the Hawks on the rear

I have used DS2500 pads on my old 180sx in the past which had R33 4 pot calipers/discs on the front. Compared to the 1st set of pads which were probally OEM nissan ones despite the brakes being fairly large given the weight of the car. I had fade after only 2 laps, after I changed to the DS2500 I could go the whole session 6 hot laps and not have any problems.

There is a sweet spot but when it comes to pads, if you fit pads that are too heat orieanted then they dont work as well when they are cold. The DS2500 for me work fine when cold but get better when theres some heat in them

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...