Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

20 is out, 26 is upside with sump off and its all ready at the enigineer's

-Modify Sump

-n1 oil pump

-New water pump

-New water pipes

-new gaskets throughout inc inlet, exhaust, rocker covers, front crank seal, rear main etc

-New engine mounts (old ones broke on way out)

-Need either another z32 and a chip so stock ecu runs it ok, or a pair of stock GTR air flow meters till i go aftermarket ECU

-Paint inlet and covers

-New catch can

-Front Pipe

-Modify Cooler Piping

-install twin plate

-New filters

-install motor

-Finish wiring

think thats a pretty small list considering!

  • 4 weeks later...

OK finially some progress and some new pictures, Have sorted out the wiring. and all the plumbing on the 26. god there is alot you dont need!

Aircon compressor removed, rb26 power steering pump removed and the rb20 bolted into place. (conveniently fits using the standard mounting location of the air conditioning compressor)

Front pipe has turned up, still waiting on AFM's and hks hard intake kit. But the thing really slowing me down is the VRS kit, will seriously hurt somebody if this shit doesnt turn up soon! As soon as it gets here the motor will be redy to have clutch bolted on and motor dropped into place.

All the engine covers have been nicely painted aswell. Here is some pics, also one of my new workbench :)

(actually just reallised i didnt take one of the actuall work bench so i will get onto that in the next few days )

P1110903.jpg

P1110904.jpg

P1110906.jpg

P1110909.jpg

Whole front of motor is finished

Cam seals

N1 oil pump

Water pump

crank seal

new idler bearing

new tensioner and spring

Gates timing belt

hmm think thats the whole front? Was starting to get super angry as i realised i got sent 3 crank seals instead of one crank and two cam seals... turns out cam seals are same part number as crank seals in 32 gtr's haha :)

Still waiting on vrs, and waiting for my standard manifolds and dumps to get painted in that black heat proof stuff. Should tidy it up a bit.

Then only thing left is rear main seal and bolt clutch/flywheel up and drop it in

Wiring is allready finished. Then just mod front pipe to fit my existing 3" cat back system and two cooler pipes and bam back on the road :)

Also found out i got a nice surprise turbo wise with my front cut, .60 - .64 turbos, There either N1 or Nismo Group A turbos. Pretty happy bout that

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Car is finially finished and running, honestly cant stress enough if you want something done right do it your f**king self. only outsourced one part of the build and it put me behind 3 weeks and cost me more money

but 10psi for a week or so, a second oil and filter change. some dyno time to check afrs after that and happy days.

And some new semi slicks tomorrow morning! happy days, words cannot express how it felt to drive it out of the garage for the first time in 4 months!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...