Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

tried posting this Sunday but wasnt working on the forums

the cars been off the road for a few days and i need help with getting it back on

i was selling my non-turbo calipers and i needed to put the turbo ones on

so i unbolted the non-turbo ones and bleeded the lines

i then bolted the new brake lines up to it and started the car whilst pumping the brake

but the brake fluid had gone everywhere

i bolted them on tight, so does anyone have a clue to what could or may have gone wrong

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335009-need-help-with-brakes/
Share on other sites

what do you mean by "the brake fluid went everywhere".........you didn't pop the pistons out by leaving the pads out by any chance?

nahh the brake pads were in

does the hole from the brake hose (the end nipple bit) need to be alligned with the nuts hole through it so the fluid flows through it?

the problem is photos really cant explain the problem because all i can show is a brake line going into the caliper!!

im just trying to see if people may know whats wrong with the line because i was told a staight transfer of lines should be fine and just bolt it in

i did exactly that and the fluids squirting everywhere and the problem is my car isn't movable!! do you reckon RAA would have a clue what it could be?

RAA doesnt fix up home DIY gone wrong...

Did you bleed the lines when you fitted the turbo calipers on?

Can you trace where the brake fluid is leaking out from?

yes i bleeded the line and fitted the new ones on

i then tested them out when i was completed and they leaked from the nuts where they meed at the caliper/line.. which is what i touched

all that needs to be done is bolted in

Have you put the little copper washers back in??

yeah i put the copper washer back.. thankss for the advice though

Did you put a little sealant onto the thread of the nuts before you tighten them in?

nah i didn't what sealent would you recommend? thanks for the advice

diff diameter brake line connections?

unsealed bleed nipple ?

-D

might be worth checking if the NA brake lines have different connectors to turbo brakes, i doubt it, but it is a possibility.

also s1 and s2 R33 brakes may be different

might be worth checking if the NA brake lines have different connectors to turbo brakes, i doubt it, but it is a possibility.

also s1 and s2 R33 brakes may be different

thats truee

i will have to look into it cheers for the advice

line are different

same as on s13

need to pull the olive out of the calipers if your gonna use the na lines

almost 100% on this but never worked on a na so chime in other dudes

best option would be to use turbo lines though

Edited by 1400r
do it all up tight

what suburb you in? need someone to look at it?

i did the 2 nuts up tight

i live in kensington park around a 2 minute drive from the parade

cheers for the advice

i actually noticed while doing it that the hit had a hole hollowed through it and the nipple had a parrallel hole in it which delivered the fluid..

i was thinking do you reckon they need to be alligned?

yes i bleeded the line and fitted the new ones on

i then tested them out when i was completed and they leaked from the nuts where they meed at the caliper/line.. which is what i touched

all that needs to be done is bolted in

What needs to be bolted in?

Is the caliper installed over the rotor?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...