Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys I currently have 275 35 R19 on the back and 245 40 R19 on the front

Im pretty sure my rims are 11" wide as even the 275s seem stretched

The reason im asking is that im interested in getting some KU36 from option one and the only 19" size is 285/35/19

Now I dont think going from 275 to 285 is going to give me any problem on the back but Im not to sure about the fronts. My gut feeling is that the front wont have the room for 285s so If thats the case Ill stick another set of KU19s on when they need to be replaced

Anyone have any ideas?

I guess it will also come down to what offset my wheels are but unfortunately the stickers that are on them with the specs have had all the text worn away and cant be read

post-59606-1283594622_thumb.jpgpost-59606-1283594188_thumb.jpg

I've got 285 on the rear on 10.5" rims and I could even go up to 295 to keep the tyre dead square with the rim. You could go 295 easily if you have 11" rims which would make sense if you want to avoid the slightly stretched look.

I have 255's on the front. 265 would be wide enough depending on rim size.

be aware that the VDC is set up for the coupe staggered wheel fitment. You'll have to adjust the tyre aspect ratio if you want to keep the same width all round.

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

Standard tyre fitment is 225/45/18 & 245/45/18.

Edited by mosoto

255 should be the max on the fronts. Rears should be no more than 285. Reason being is that the rears and even then front will always run a little to a few degrees negative camber. Thus not all the tyres will stick to the ground so traction more than adequate with 275s Or 285s. Unless you had 400hp+ at the rears then mor wider tyres more traction and ofcourse depending on what brand of tyres.

Personally I love the stretched look. I have 245s on 20inx9.5 front and 265 on 20inx10.5 rears of my gtcs. Hope that helps.

I ran my hand around the inside of the front wheel and yeah theres bugger all room betwean the tyre and suspension items, so 245 im thinking is as wide as you can go without using spacers to push the wheels out

As for the stretched look goes its not so practicale on my car, KU19s have a rim protector but unlike mosots pic my rim protector is behind the lip of the rim, which explains why all my rims are gutterd. Im planning on sending all 4 of them to the repair shop to get freshened up one day when I sort myself out with a set of track rims.

However I finaly found my dream LSD which is going to cost me allmost as much as a new set of 19" so they will have to wait

also be careful of the BRAND of tyre

In my case, the Michilen Pilot Sport II does not scrub, and then i got some new tyres got Pirelli P-Zero in exactly same size and it does scrub

the pirelli is a tad wider than the pilot sport II, i dunno why, but the sidewalls stick out like 1-2 cms more.

i had to dial in a touch more neg camber to fix the issue.

It also depends on the wheel offsets that you are using.

I have a V35 Sedan and am running 19s x 9 wide, +32 offset and from memory I have 275 wide tyres all around. I will check tyre size tonight and confirm.

I have no issues at all.

The fronts are perfect fit, the rears do slightly stick outside the guard by 5+mm.

A wheel place will be able to check out what tyre size will fit into your car depending on the wheel size and offset.

  • 3 weeks later...
It also depends on the wheel offsets that you are using.

I have a V35 Sedan and am running 19s x 9 wide, +32 offset and from memory I have 275 wide tyres all around. I will check tyre size tonight and confirm.

I have no issues at all.

The fronts are perfect fit, the rears do slightly stick outside the guard by 5+mm.

A wheel place will be able to check out what tyre size will fit into your car depending on the wheel size and offset.

Hey,

Have you done any body work, cutting or rolling guards to run 19x9 +30... Im also looking to get some 19s so wondering which width and offset i should go for as i dont want to loose much ride control and dont want to do any body work.

Cheers,

Raween

ok guys i got some new rears & fronts yesterday

i can confirm that Dunlop SP Sport MAXX in 295/30/19 (rear) and 265/30/19 (front) will fit better than anything else if you have clearance issues - they have very flush sidewalls and dont stick out insanely like the Pirelli PZERO.

I will be sticking to this tire for the future.

Also got an excellent price - $350 each for the rear and $245 each for the front. Couldnt be happier for 4 brand new tyres.

ok guys i got some new rears & fronts yesterday

i can confirm that Dunlop SP Sport MAXX in 295/30/19 (rear) and 265/30/19 (front) will fit better than anything else if you have clearance issues - they have very flush sidewalls and dont stick out insanely like the Pirelli PZERO.

I will be sticking to this tire for the future.

Also got an excellent price - $350 each for the rear and $245 each for the front. Couldnt be happier for 4 brand new tyres.

hey mate. How would you rate the noise on these? Also are 20s available? When I saw the $350 figure I was really happy foe a sec but realized it was 19s. Wished 20s were that cheap especially in the Dunlop range. Lol

Got my new rears, wanted to get some KU36s but the 285 35 R19 was out of stock pretty much everywhere. Ended up getting some Federal 595 RPMs in the same size

they seem to fit the rim perfectly which is 10" wide

compound is supposed to be gripper than the KU36, ill have a better idea after my next sprint session on the 5th of October

Hey Raween,

No mate I haven't done any bodywork nor touched anything on the car to have these wheels and tyres on.

Cheers.

Hey,

Have you done any body work, cutting or rolling guards to run 19x9 +30... Im also looking to get some 19s so wondering which width and offset i should go for as i dont want to loose much ride control and dont want to do any body work.

Cheers,

Raween

be aware that the VDC is set up for the coupe staggered wheel fitment. You'll have to adjust the tyre aspect ratio if you want to keep the same width all round.

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

Standard tyre fitment is 225/45/18 & 245/45/18.

Thats a cool link. Thanks for that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...