Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Many, many years ago, I thought the worst ever cars to work on were VW's.

We used to call them Hilter's revenge. Strange metric bolts, cramped engine bay, just horrible.

Helped pull the head off my son's Aristo last week and I've changed my opinion. The VW was a dream compared to this car.

There is simply no room, fullstop.

Thought it might be better up on the hoist but no, just the same, only higher.

There's no doubt the basic 2JZ is nicely engineered when compared to an Rb, accessable oilpump relief valve, sensible cambelt arrangement, Hall effect CAS, old fashioned no nonsense stuff.

Then they got on the drugs.

Crazy waterpump, insane hydraulic fan and that massive sequential turbo lump of cast iron is beyond belief. It has so many actuators and valves I have no confidence that it's ever going to all get back together.

Next we move onto the other side with the impossible-to-get-at fuel hoses, electrical harness, sensors...,

Makes the GTR look ever so simple.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335783-tojos-revenge/
Share on other sites

oh no! i was thinking about getting an aristo as our 2nd car, and i like to play around with the engine my self, so im slightly put off by this. other than the cramped, awkward engine bay, is it a good car?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335783-tojos-revenge/#findComment-5434862
Share on other sites

oh no! i was thinking about getting an aristo as our 2nd car, and i like to play around with the engine my self, so im slightly put off by this. other than the cramped, awkward engine bay, is it a good car?

Excellent luxury cruiser and they're cheap as. Parts are very reasonable via NZ Toyota dealers.

If it's modified I'd walk away as they have 23 computers (from memory) and if some cowboy has started chopping hoses and wires, you'll never get it running properly.

When buying 2nd hand there's a few things the car must have either had done or just be prepared to do them.

Electro-hydraulic brake accumulator nitrogen re-charge.

Radiator or top tank, heater hoses generally.

Valve stem seals.

Cambelt etc.

Waterpump/hydraulic fan pump.

They have ceramic turbos (which are fine until someone decides to play with the boost)

Stripped gears in the electric adjustable seats.

Check all suspension balljoints.

Mod the cruise control's computer so it will go better than 100kph.

Auto trans is excellent.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335783-tojos-revenge/#findComment-5435664
Share on other sites

and that massive sequential turbo lump of cast iron is beyond belief. It has so many actuators and valves I have no confidence that it's ever going to all get back together.

throw the whole lot in a skip, and replace it with a mid-sized Garrett single and a 6Boost manifold

easy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335783-tojos-revenge/#findComment-5440749
Share on other sites

do they react well to simple engine and suspension mods?

You're asking the wrong person.

I think if they're left stock, you'll have a cheap, powerful luxury cruiser.

From my experience, the suspension would need a lot spent on it to make the car perform. It's not a stiff chassis as a base and it doesn't have tough suspension arms etc. They're designed for a smooth comfortable ride not fantastic handling. Luckily all balljoints, arms etc can be bought aftermarket for a fraction of Toyota's cost. There is enormous inter-changeability of parts between models with Toyotas, far more than I've come across with Skylines.

As standard, they have an open diff and composite universal/tailshaft joints. Manual box, LSD and driveline parts could be sourced from a Supra, and I've seen these cars converted to 6-speeds on Jap. auctions. Foot operated handbrake conversion would be difficult.

The under-bonnet temps are very high yet the massive radiator will not allow the engine to overheat even in the worst heatwave. The aircon is outstanding.

The stock heat shielding on manifold/turbos is excellent and to bin all that would need a LOT of thought.

As they're a RHS exhaust manifold, there's steering and brake equipment very close to the hot bits. Obviously this is why they came standard with the electro-hydraulic brake system which is extremely compact considering it also has the ABS incorporated.

Anyone who's fitted a 2JZ into an S13 knows how difficult it is to reliably keep the heat away from clutch/brake master cylinders.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335783-tojos-revenge/#findComment-5441099
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...