Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well i've got a HD daiken clutch put in the other day with a help of a mate of mine, it was all aligned right, bleed, and otherwise adjusted so the grab point is nice.- although seems though the grab point is just off the ground. although i'm still getting a slight "brrrrrrrr" noise like its still engaged when i'm not on the clutch and even more noticeable when its jsut sitting there in neutral. Someone told me i gotta shorten the rod going into the master clutch cylinder. is this right or wot? what should i do so adjust it correctly so its not constantly rubbing and wearing out??

thanks

ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33614-clutch-help/
Share on other sites

Hi skypy12, did you change the fork pivot? Most of the Daikins seem to be designed for the GTR pivot, which is 18 mm longer than a GTST pivot.

Looks like this

R33 GTR Pivot

If you don't, the clutch is too low to the floor and you aren't getting full release of the clutch plate. The other alternative is a longer shaft on the clutch slave cylinder.

Hope that helps

PS, this is what GTST pivot looks like when it breaks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33614-clutch-help/#findComment-674506
Share on other sites

no i didn't change the fork pivot, wasn't aware of having to change it at all.

are u sure about a longer shaft on the clutch slave cylinder??........cos i asked one of my mates today and he said somthin about shortening it........though he could be wrong.

and btw is the fork pivot located near the clutch pedal or where? i don't konw too much about them, but thanks for the help

is there any possiblity that just adjusting the pedal will elimate the problem..or only to a certain degree????

and will the clutch get screwed up if i drive with it like this for a few day, not saying i will but just incase its not fixed immediatly and i need to drive somewhere? noise isn't greatly loud but can just hear it slightly if ya listen for it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33614-clutch-help/#findComment-674581
Share on other sites

u maybe able to get more travel by adjusting the pedal u have to have a look , like sydney kid said a longer slave shaft will do the trick also , if u shorten it u want have clutch at all .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33614-clutch-help/#findComment-675983
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
    • That's my life. Past-Duncan has a lot to answer for
×
×
  • Create New...