Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Pride and joy is up for sale ...1993 GTR R32..... moving on to other things...like an R34 !!

Engine:

Rebuilt 3000km ago: Makes 336rwkw on 18PSI – Tuned by RacePace

Engine block has a crack in one of the water galleries – still runs

· CP forged Pistons

· ACL race bearings

· Ported and flowed head

· Blue printed and balanced crank

· OS Giken cam gears

· Oil gallery modifications

· N1 Oil Pump

· Oil filter relocation kit

· Oil filter for oil turbo lines

Fuel System:

· Blitz 660 Injectors

· Nismo fuel pump

· Nismo fuel pressure regulator

Induction:

· Z32 airflow meters

· Garret 2560 (-5) Turbos x2

Exhaust:

· 4 inch Custom "RacePace" exhaust – Turbo back

Cooling:

· PWR Radiator

· Nismo low temp thermostat

· 28 row oil cooler

· Air Diversion panel

· Standard GTR Intercooler

Brakes:

· AP Racing 6 pot – 360mm Rotors

· Hawk race pads

Electronics:

· Blitz Spec R Dual solenoid boost controller

· Apexi Power FC with hand controller

Interior:

· Cusco Bolt in 6 point cage

[/size]

Drive train:

· Twin Plate Carbon Clutch

· Bilstein Suspension

· Nismo 1.5 way LSD

Exterior:

18" Driftek Wheels

Car is currently road registered in Victoria

$24,000

Pictures Below

post-51819-1284284912_thumb.jpgpost-51819-1284284925_thumb.jpg

Edited by josh23457
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336541-r32-gtr-for-sale/
Share on other sites

Hey Guys,

THe block is cracked at the moment - Been quoted 3000 - 3500 to repair.

Engine internals are all still perfect only been in the car for 3000 and all the best quality parts were used!

Price is negotiable

AS all the parts are so new (only 3000 km) i can part the car and with 50% value of the bolt on parts can get over 20,000 without going near the engine and its internals...

it is a fanatstic car

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...