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Stripping my r33, So all has to go.. Also have full r33 interior dash/roof/seats etc you name it i prob have it.. All i need is the bare essentials to make the car drive.

- Mugen Power Gear knob.

Very short, very light, Should stretch out your vtech a few hundred RPM, and increase your bwarrrrppppppp sound.

$40

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Size Comparison

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- R33 Gear boot/Lower handbrake boot

Good Condition, no visible tears, Still shiny.

$30

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- Pioneer 6x9's

Fully Sickest, 300w - Worth $100 2010 Model STILL SOLD AT JBHIFI, Go check for yourself!

$50

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- 6x9 Speaker holders

Increase the offset of your speakers, hella flush.

$20

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- Shift light and Monster Taco

Changes color if you press the button, wOw!

$40

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- R33 S2 Pink AFM

Good condition, mesh still intact was working fine!

$70

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- Boost Gauge

Electronic boost gauge, Smoked Face with holder, all wiring.

$40

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Greddy Turbo Timer

- All wiring, plug it in, walk away, No more to pay.

$80

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R33 Middle Console

As per photos, As you see is as you get.

$40

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Call or SMS 0421 927 250, Located Western Suburbs of Melbourne.. can post/pickup.

Edited by antonio

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  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that mate always a good help
    • It's not really a calibration issue, if the voltage is really at 2V. If the voltage is 2V, then that's what the TPS is putting out, and the Haltech is seeing that and 2V is about 40% open (you know, between 0.45v being closed and something close to 4.5V being fully open). So, that would suggest that the TPS is maladjusted, on crooked, something something something. Or a wire problem.
    • Hi guys my TPS voltage is reading over 2v at idle.  My Haltech ECU is reading around 40% throttle position at idle also which is really strange. Note the actual throttle position sensor is brand new…    anyone have any experience with this or know how to calibrate it on Haltech ? 
    • The OEM disk will not work on any AEM ECU, you need to use the one they made. You shouldn't have to flip the CAS or whatever you were describing, if you set the ignition sync offset correctly it can't backfire. Make sure you're using a spark plug lead on coil 1 instead of the timing loop to avoid weird issues with the timing light. Double check that your timing settings are actually correct, like is the 24 tooth configured correct or should it actually be 12 teeth for 1 crank revolution? I also found this: 305817248-AEM-Undocumented-Settings-v1-2.pdf    
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