Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

C33:

NP shortened knuckles , lengthened lca's etc

RB20det making 204 RWKW

RB20det 5 speed box,

Excedy heavy duty button clutch,

Nismo 2 way diff,

HKS 2530 turbo,

Bosch 044 fuel pump,

R33 GTR injectors,

R33 GTR FMIC,

stainless 3" intake pipe and pod,

5 stud and brake conversion,

3 inch full exhaust with decat and "cannon" muffler,

ZEAL coilovers,

caster bars (non hicas),

rear camber bars,

nardi wheel,

club s lip ,

strut bars

A31:

-RB20det in perfect health, full compression within factory specs, possibly rebuilt in japan but i havent pulled it open to check.

-GTR frontmount cooler

-GTR fuel pump

-fully maintained and fluids changed more often then most road cars

-Remapped ECU

-KKR 430 Turbocharger and dump pipe

-Stainless steel V band Dump pipe with Apexi 3 inch racing exhaust (which is on the laurel atm)

-5 speed RB20 manual with 5 puck "Drift Clutch" from Extreme clutch

Susp:

-Cusco camber arms

-Rack spacers for more lock

-ISC adjustable coilovers (8kg front 6kg rear)

-Rear Camber arms

-Locked hicas

-GTR Sway bars all round

-Alloy cradle bushes

-Nismo 2-way

-r33 brake conversion (same as s2 r32 gtr)

Exterior:

-Uras style body kit, Final connexion full kit , standard bars

-Vented bonnet (and std bonnet for spare)

-XR Ford Purple paint (custom mix , no metallic , just pearl)

-Flared front and rear guards

-Update model rear lights, along with front lights and grille

-Uras front parkers

-GT Style wing

Interior:

-greddy boost guage , afr meter

-recaro driver seat

-Cefiro Passengers seat

-Full interior trim, Everything works, doesn't have a HU but i can fit one

-momo steering wheel

comments: last time i'll be offering the laurel for sale, i can make it cheaper by taking parts off it , i'll be keeping one (just to make it clear) , only reason i'm selling one is because i don't need 2 of the same thing and i want a r32/3 gtr for track. The cefiro needs a few things putting back together but i will do that if there's any interest , NO SWAPS unless you have a gtr or want to give me a car for free . I'll find some pics asap

Edited by toffy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339451-fs-c33-or-a31-or-swap-gtr/
Share on other sites

Can do A31:

-RB20det in perfect health

-GTR fuel pump

-3in exhaust

-5 speed RB20 manual with 5 puck "Drift Clutch" from Extreme clutch

Susp:

-ISC adjustable coilovers (8kg front 6kg rear)

-Rear Camber arms

-Locked hicas

Exterior:

- standard bars

-XR Ford Purple paint (custom mix , no metallic , just pearl)

-Flared front and rear guards

-Update model rear lights

Interior:

-greddy boost guage

-Cefiro Passengers seat

-Full interior trim, Everything works, doesn't have a HU

for much cheaper , oh and the vs-kf are on the laurel , the ceff has std r33 rims , gtr r33 pair and volk gt-c pair :P

post-20231-1286356471_thumb.jpg

post-20231-1286356504_thumb.jpg

post-20231-1286356582_thumb.jpg

post-20231-1286356622_thumb.jpg

post-20231-1286356688_thumb.jpg

post-20231-1286356820_thumb.jpg

post-20231-1286356855_thumb.jpg

Edited by toffy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...