Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im 17 years old and want to get a nonturbo r33 for my first car. I have no experience modifying cars but I have 3 months off so do you think during this time I will be able to install the bodykit by myself on my car using online resources and some help from my dad (whose pretty good with that kinda thing - he has done quite a lot of mechanical work on our boats). I think I'd like something like the Jun bodykit: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/R33-Skyline-Bodykit...=item27b6058254.

Cheers guys any help appreciated

Edited by tapout
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342401-p-plater-buying-first-skyline/
Share on other sites

I personally would say buy a non turbo manuel get some practice and then when u are ready sell it and but a turbo. At least you wont kill the turbo by storing the car alot. Or just hold off buying one till then buy a cheap man car and drive it

so I'm guessing you're just about to finish school?

You need to keep in mind what type of car you're looking at and how much it will cost, including rego, insurance, petrol and general maintenance. Skylines aren't a cheap toy, young padawan.

Hey mate

Your in pretty much the same situation that i was in about a year ago. Though i had lost my license for speeding so i couldnt drive it lol :P. 3 months should be fine for you and your old man to install and paint the kit.

My whole car was built in 2 months so its definately possible...as long as you've got time and money to do it all though.

On average for a bodykit you'd be looking at 800-1500 depending on type of kit and quality of parts.

Depending how extreme you want to go whether just front bar/skirts and rear bar its relatively simple but bodykits in general dont just lineup and bolt on you need to know how to fibreglass and shape them otherwise looks nasty.

There's ups and downs to buying an N/A vs Turbo. Obviously p plates you need N/A for now, but if you want a turbo later its best not to spend to much on your N/A just do general mods which you can transfer later like Wheels/Audio etc.

That being said I've spent heaps on my N/A and just got off my P plates 6 months ago, now going to be converting engine to turbo instead of selling.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...