Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone heard about mounting a IHI RHC7 turbo on a RB26?

I'm searching some information like RPM for boost peak at different boost levels, maximum bhp output, feedbacks from owners...

I just finished rebuilding one and it just came back from balancing. I'm going to mount it on my forged bottom RB26. Mine is a bit king of hybrid because using a HKS T04R turbine housing.

Here is some information found on internet:

Compressor wheel inducer= 57.15mm exducer=81.91mm

57.15mm^2/81.91mm^2*100 = 49 trim

Turbine wheel exducer =62.61mm, inducer =73.66

62.61mm^2 /73.66 mm^2*100 = 72 trim

Compressor housing 2.27 inches of area / 3.31 radius = .69 ar

T04R turbine housing is T4 inlet .81 undivided

RHC7 seems to be given for 62LB/min

It has very near dimensions with power enterprise PE2220, so it could probably flow 22M3/min. A bit less than 62lb/min.

I have seen 1JZ dynos with that turbo at 550RWHP.

If some of you used this turbo or have information, please let me know. smile.gif

  • 1 month later...

Digging out this thread.

I have been looking for weeks for information about the exhaust housing of this hybrid turbo.

It looks sooooo small! And nothing is written on it.

And it's still a real T04 flange!

it's smaller than all T04R turbine housing I have seen and way smaller than RHC7 stock turbine housing.

In one hand the spool must be sooo quick!! In the other hand there is a risk of early choke. Luckily, the exhaust wheel is damn big, 74/63mm 72trim.

The only info Y have is it's stabilo written "HKS N°=40" on it. It has real T4 flange and 3" 4 bolt outlet.

Have you already seen this kind of turbine housing?

RB26RHC7_07.JPG

RB26RHC7_08.JPG

ihi1.jpg

IMG_5380.jpg

IMG_5379.jpg

ihi rx8 indy turbo..

the compressor cover and backplate are made from magnesium and hard anodized

the comp wheel is investment cast titanium and is ptfe coated( teflon)

inducer is 74mm,exducer is 91mm

a/r is 1.0

the turbine housing is investment cast from titanium

it uses v band clamps for manifold and outlet.

the turbine wheel is a super alloy inconel 738.

inducer is 89mm,exducer 79mm

the a/r is 1.2

looks completely different to my rhc7, your one seems to have a garrett/khs rear on it?

Mines T4 flange with some sort of weird V band rear.

From what I understand its a touch bigger than a holset hx35, CEFF1E on here has a hx35 on a stock bottom, stock cams rb30DET, 325rwkw, 19 psi, full boost at roughly 3500rpm's.

So theres a possible comparison.

I havent ran my Ihi on the rb30det yet, car isnt finished.

According to the specs, it should be nice on the 3 ltr,see how it goes I guess.

heres a pic of mine

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d85/anmlrx/rb.jpg

Edited by works 510

jibe, i forgot my camera today but took some with my phone, I can MMS them to your phone if your interested?

Thanks, but I'm living in France, maybe it's not included in your mobile phone contract and would be expensive?

I can wait, it's not a problem.

If you still prefer I will send you my number by PM.

  • 1 year later...

Digging this old thread.

I'm about to finish my build and now I'm close to first start.

I made measurement of the compressor and turbine wheels and imprecise measurement/calculation of turbine A/R and what I found seems a bit crazy!

Compressor wheel is effectively 82 exducer, but is 63mm inducer instead of 57!!! So that makes the compressor side a good monster though it becomes bigger than a GT3582R and closer to a T04R/Z compressor.

And the second kisscool effect is on the turbine side: the wheel is effectively some Ptrim whith 74mm inducer and 63mm exducer (same as T04R/Z), but my rough measurement of A/R on the T4 housing gave me 0.40!!!!!!! Totally retarded A/R on a RB26! I think I now understand the "HKS N°40" written on it.

Thinking about what it will look like when used, it should be a spooling monster but clearly a power and boost killer at high rev, with enormous backpressure and heat. Looking at the turbine entry, the T4 inlet becomes sooooo small inside regarding the amount of gas that are going to try to pass through it!!!!!!

So I think I'm going to try it at 1bar to see how it behaves, but I really must find an other bigger standard RHC7 housing for a more realistic use of this turbo.

Works 510, do you maybe know where I could find one?

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...