Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ever Since i put a New Twin Plate Clutch in my 32GTR ( had a worn OS Giken Twin )

Now i have a Nismo Twin SupperCopperMix

I am Getting More and More Wheel Bounce/Tramp ( NON smooth Launch )

Has Anyone experience this in there GTRs?

It Mainly Happens on big Launches and its crazy Horrible to drive i wont Launch any more until i have it sorted

seems as if the Clutch is just too harsh or i have a Stuffed Tein Coilover Maybe or something???

Any Experience you guys and girls can share with me ?!?!?!?!?!?:( or better any solutions ?

Cheers Peoples

SIR032

yep happened to me when the rear cradle bushes split and leaked. i threw some jjr solid bushes in which fixed it, awesome handling upgrade for the $$$ too. Although launching in the wet now it tramps like crazy

just to note i got coilovers and same clutch

Edited by nissanbenny
  • 4 weeks later...

Same Nismo Suppercopper mix? Clutch as mine does the pedal engage late or high?

I have already done the Solid mounting on the rear cradle but good idea also suggests that it could be a weak or leaking shock ?

or some thing loose around that area , i have noticed it bounces only on straight ahead launches a left or right hand leaning Launch its smooth as and also smooth getting sideways in rear wheel drive only

Hmmm Interesting

what else can peoples suggest???

  • 2 weeks later...

i had same prob in my Gtr. dropped the tyre pressure and it stopped. also if your shocks are 2 stiff it won't help. i also found that solid sub frame bushs don't help the car squat correctly. i put some poly ones in and i haven't had any problems launching.

i had same prob in my Gtr. dropped the tyre pressure and it stopped. also if your shocks are 2 stiff it won't help. i also found that solid sub frame bushs don't help the car squat correctly. i put some poly ones in and i haven't had any problems launching.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...