Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

I've just changed the plugs on my series 2 R33 rb25det, and even though I'm not mechanically great it wasn't that hard, as I took my time and worked my way through it.

I also coated the coil packs with high temp silicone, after readig some posts.

Went with NGK BPR7ES-11 after reading some posts on here.

Cleaned the air filter as well. It has seemed to make a huge difference, the miss I was getting on boost has completely gone, and the car seems to have more power quicker.

The only problem is it is stalling sometimes as I decelerate, The car starts and idles fine at about 600 rpm, goes really well, just has this intermittent stalling issue.

I rechecked all the vacuum hoses, is it something i may have done, or is it totally unrelated.

Should I look at the AFM or 02 sensor?

Any ideas or thoughts appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344029-car-stalling-after-plug-change/
Share on other sites

what mods do you have? unless you have an aftermarket turbo then the 7 plugs will be too cold, and while they may be fine now, you may find that in a few weeks if you sit in traffic a bit it will start to run a bit rough as the plugs start to foul up a bit. for standard turbo applications heat range 6 plugs are the way to go. even small aftermarket turbo applications where the car is mostly used as a daily heat range 6 is the way to go.

as for the stalling issue, it may be related to the IAC and AAC valve. this often causes a stalling issue. also if you have an atmo bov then it will also be making this issue worse.

adjust the idle screw anti-clockwise to raise your idle slightly, to around 700 - 750rpm when warm. it will be fine after that.

i just changed my plugs and my idle was slightly lower than before. not stalling or anything, but with the headlights on it would drop a little too low for my liking.

i found a split in my breather hose, which i fixed when i changed my plugs. my guess is that slight leak may have been enough to raise the idle by 50-100rpm. dunno. maybe not.

7's will be fine if you're running around 200kw or higher, say 12psi on stock turbo. theyve been recommended by plenty of tuners/mechanics for this application.

p.s. i drive my car like a granny 70% of the time, and i run 7's. when i change my plugs, they dont look fouled at all.

Edited by Munkyb0y

To my knowledge the only mods are a front mount intercooler, and a K & N type pod filter. The turbo is stock and running pretty much stock boost.

is the idle screw near the throttle cable? sorry m a total noob at this, but can follow instructions like youtube tutorials etc. I have basic mechanical skills.... very basic Lol!

Its actually a very stock car, i bought it off an chinese exchange student who could barely speak english or drive it when he went back home.

the idle screw is on the IAC valve at the back of the plenum. i know that you will read that bit about the IAC valve and just have a blank look on your face so i will tell you what and where it is, LOL.

if you stand at the drivers side front wheel (with the bonnet open obviously, LOL) and look at the intake plenum, towards the back (closest to the firewall) you should see a few plugs and on the same bit a phillips head screw. that is the idle screw. to properly adjust the idle though you can't simply just wind that screw in and out as the ecu will try to counter what you are doing. to properly adjust the idle you need to have the car warm, turn it off, unplug the throttle position sensor (plug on the throttle body with wires coming out of it), start the car again, revi it over 3000rpm a few times in a few seconds (think it's 3 times in 5 seconds) and then you have the car locking into base idle mode. then set the idle to where you want it, turn the car off, plug back in the TPS and you are done.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The boot notch on the GK Tech rods is different to OEM yes. You'll find a solution. They are a good rod, I have used many of them for various setups, and no they are not ' just for drift cars', they are fine as an OEM replacement. Same goes for the tie rod ends although I found they transmitted a huge amount of NVH a normal balljoint masks, making it feel like there was something loose or knocking, even though there wasn't. If you used the same pieces on each side, no reason one angle should be different to the other side. Have you checked ride heights/measured the angles? Or just visual? Your alignment will be massively out of whack yes. Up to you; it is worth taking the time to learn wheel alignments and do it yourself. I have never had better wheel alignments and I haven't taken my car to a shop for, dunno...many many years. Spend a few hundred on equipment, do alot of research via online articles, youtube vids, and "trial and error" on setups. Eg, set it with too much toe-out, toe-in, too much or little caster, drive the same stretch of awesome twisty mountain road each time, learn how they feel and how the car's handling has reacted to your changes.
    • Won’t be hard to beat them. 🤣 Farken sponge cakes!
    • Nah I did not will have to another time. I only installed a blitz return flow FMIC probably 1000kms ago. When I took the old piping off there was basically no oil in piping. At this stage it has to be valve stem seals. When I roll down a big hill in gear and then throttle down the bottom, I get the same puff of smoke.
    • I believe when they added coolant to cool the turbo it negated the need for turbo timers as water continues to flow even when the engine is shut off I forget the actual terminology, I'll just say the coolant "percolates" through the turbo which stops the oil cooking itself to death  Well....that's how I see it, as all the plant at work that has coolant lines to the turbo can be shut down straight away, whereas the older plant with only oil feed to the turbo you need to idle it for a few minutes
×
×
  • Create New...