Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was fitted to my 87 300ZX originally, however the boss kit was designed for an S13.

As i have purchased a R32 GTR it had already came with a decent wheel and boss, Didnt see the need to swap this wheel across.

Used for 2 > 3 months max, Comes with a boss kit valued at $99. Originally purchased for $299.

Yours for $250 for the wheel and boss kit.

I dont have any current pics of the wheel however is essentially new and looks exactly like the following:

momo-prototipo-black-PRO35BK2B.jpg

Contact me either via PM or 0411665826 if you would like to take a look.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346118-momo-prototipo-w-boss/
Share on other sites

Mmmm honestly not sure, i could pop it onto mine and test fit perhaps.

I'll see how much spare time i have, I probably wont get the chance until the weekend though.

Though if i do that i may be tempted to keep the wheel on my GTR xD

Edited by ZED X

No worries mate.

ZILLR: I attempted to get the Boss kit off my 300ZX, however the bugger is held on there quite well. I'll take another crack at it on the weekend with a wheel puller and see if it fits on the GTR.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...