Jump to content
SAU Community

Acceleration Off The Line

Namgun
 Share

Recommended Posts

Namgun Enthusiast

Namgun

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

I own an 06 auto skyline.

I was wondering if you guys have the same problem.

When I step on the accelerator from a stopped position I feel that the power delivered to my rear wheels aren't always the same...

Sometimes I feel a split second lag... sometimes it is much more responsive...

I've noticed that it launches more consistently when I'm in drive, with VDC switched off. Whereas on a GOOD day the semi auto's 1st gear launches alot harder... On a BAD day however, the semi auto launch isn't as good...

To be more precise, sometimes I can hear my tyres screeching (Good day) and I feel more stronger pull. But this isn't the case all the time...

my 0-100km/h ranges from roughly 5.9 - 6.9 (stop watch times not precise) depending on how well the launch is...

usually in drive, I've been averaging around 6.2 I think...

Do any of you guys have the same problem? i.e. through mods? ECU?

if so, is there a way to fix this problem?

p.s. I have no mods, it's stock.

your reply would be appreciated ;)

Nam Gun (Paul)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346371-acceleration-off-the-line/
Share on other sites
projectx Collaborator

projectx

Posted
Posted

So many factors. It could be down to road temperature, road surface, air temperature. Try to test it on the same piece of road in the same conditions and see if you still get varying results.. Also a/c on/off might contribute..

VNS 24 Mentor

VNS 24

Posted
Posted

Looks like you are after performance mods. ;)

1. Cat-back exhaust

2. Pod-filter or K&N panel filer

3. Motordyne plenum spacers

4. Grounding kit

5. Light wieight rims with semi-slick tires

6. Aftermarket suspension (Lowered)

7. Aftermarket brakes

These should see you get extra 10-20rwkw.

If not satisfied, turbocharge or supercharge is the go. :)

Namgun Enthusiast

Namgun

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Looks like you are after performance mods. thumbsup.gif

1. Cat-back exhaust

2. Pod-filter or K&N panel filer

3. Motordyne plenum spacers

4. Grounding kit

5. Light wieight rims with semi-slick tires

6. Aftermarket suspension (Lowered)

7. Aftermarket brakes

These should see you get extra 10-20rwkw.

If not satisfied, turbocharge or supercharge is the go. smile.gif

Thanks for your reply ~

what does the grounding kit do?

and what are these?

2. Pod-filter or K&N panel filer

3. Motordyne plenum spacers

sorry, i'm a noob on the mechanical side of the car

Namgun Enthusiast

Namgun

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So many factors. It could be down to road temperature, road surface, air temperature. Try to test it on the same piece of road in the same conditions and see if you still get varying results.. Also a/c on/off might contribute..

Thanks for your reply, it is much appreciated

Air temperature is a new one !

on the same road it is little bit better.

I was referring to the actual power to my rear wheels, cos if I still get the same power I would be getting wheel spins if i lack grip right?

VNS 24 Mentor

VNS 24

Posted
Posted (edited)

Thanks for your reply ~

what does the grounding kit do?

and what are these?

2. Pod-filter or K&N panel filer

3. Motordyne plenum spacers

sorry, i'm a noob on the mechanical side of the car

Hi mate,

1. Installing a grounding kit claims for HP increases and "smoother shifting".

2. Aftermarket pod filters are said to improve performance and fuel consumption, It also sound real grunty under the hood and gain a little power from NA engine.

Pod filters are illegal unless installed properly with heat shield.

K&N panel filter replaces the stock panel filter and it just helps more clean air for engine to breathe. It doesn't make much grunt or gain power as pod filter.

3. Basically, aftermarket plenum spacers (Brand : Motordyne) either increase the overall height of the stock plenum or remove the downward slope design of stock plenum, allowing more volume and greater airflow to all cylinders. Higher airflow is needed to achieve more power.

Hope these help. :thumbsup:

Edited by Victor.T
rx3ip Explorer

rx3ip

Posted
Posted

is that possible that the drive by wire not consistant .. this happens to my BMW X5 as well , if I push the X5 accelerator lightly before flooring it , it pulls very hard but if I floor it straight away at the light sometimes it doesn't give full power

My gt-8 accelerates hard from stop everytime as long as I push it all the way to the floor ... yeah :thumbsup:

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

^ exactly. The throttle motor has a slow ramp, especially if you are under 30kph. The M35 Stagea has a similar pita setup.

A good ecu reflash (like a Nismo ecu) will be the only way to fix it.

Namgun Enthusiast

Namgun

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi mate,

1. Installing a grounding kit claims for HP increases and "smoother shifting".

2. Aftermarket pod filters are said to improve performance and fuel consumption, It also sound real grunty under the hood and gain a little power from NA engine.

Pod filters are illegal unless installed properly with heat shield.

K&N panel filter replaces the stock panel filter and it just helps more clean air for engine to breathe. It doesn't make much grunt or gain power as pod filter.

3. Basically, aftermarket plenum spacers (Brand : Motordyne) either increase the overall height of the stock plenum or remove the downward slope design of stock plenum, allowing more volume and greater airflow to all cylinders. Higher airflow is needed to achieve more power.

Hope these help. :thumbsup:

Thanks alot Victor,

you've been a great help !!

Namgun Enthusiast

Namgun

Posted
  • Author
Posted

^ exactly. The throttle motor has a slow ramp, especially if you are under 30kph. The M35 Stagea has a similar pita setup.

A good ecu reflash (like a Nismo ecu) will be the only way to fix it.

Thanks for your info,

but aren't ecu set-ups around 2.5k ??

VNS 24 Mentor

VNS 24

Posted
Posted

Thanks alot Victor,

you've been a great help !!

You are welcome, mate. Always a pleasure to help out a fellow V-series owner.

With the ECU reflesh, I can't help you as I don't know anything about it. :P But I am sure there will be someone you can.

Good luck. Enjoy your V. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...