Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the manual describes setting the ignition timing using a special timing light and connecting the inductive pickup to the primary coil wire that is looped at the back of the engine.

I set it using this method but not using the special timing light it indicated 35 deg this is were the new half cut motor i have was set.

Set it to 20 but after this got a low rpm flat spot and higher egts.

Pulled the front 3 coils off and fitted ht leads to the plugs used number 1 ht for the timing light pickup and got 10deg so with my timing light there is a 10 deg difference between primary coil wire and the ht wire.

So my q is is the correct timing at the ht 20deg

the manual describes setting the ignition timing using a special timing light and connecting the inductive pickup to the primary coil wire that is looped at the back of the engine.

I set it using this method but not using the special timing light it indicated 35 deg this is were the new half cut motor i have was set.

Set it to 20 but after this got a low rpm flat spot and higher egts.

Pulled the front 3 coils off and fitted ht leads to the plugs used number 1 ht for the timing light pickup and got 10deg so with my timing light there is a 10 deg difference between primary coil wire and the ht wire.

So my q is is the correct timing at the ht 20deg

yeah sometimes its best to set it off the HT lead on number 1 (more often on sr), i have had a few cars that play up and wont set correctly off the rear loop (elite is right also as flipping the inductive pickup often makes a difference)

turn your inductive pickup around the other way. Sometimes that makes a difference. There is also sometimes two loop wires, try the other one

I read on here it can make 40deg difference with the inductive loop the other way so i already tried it and with my timing light it is the same either way.

does anyone know if the rb26 timing is 20deg when set at the ht instead of the primary loop?

Setting it from a primary lead on cyl 1 is the most accurate way. You can do it that way without problems.

set it to 20 deg BTDC if it's a 32 or 33 GTR

You can also set them by ear to get them close or a dial indicator if you have the proper equipment but that's a lot of stuffing around to set your timing.

If you have a problem with the CAS, it may be off.

Also what ECU are you running? Factory ECU I think the manual recommends that you disconnect the TPS when setting timing to put it in base timing mode.

Setting it from a primary lead on cyl 1 is the most accurate way. You can do it that way without problems.

set it to 20 deg BTDC if it's a 32 or 33 GTR

You can also set them by ear to get them close or a dial indicator if you have the proper equipment but that's a lot of stuffing around to set your timing.

If you have a problem with the CAS, it may be off.

Also what ECU are you running? Factory ECU I think the manual recommends that you disconnect the TPS when setting timing to put it in base timing mode.

The primary lead is on the 12volt side the ht is the spark plug side im using the ht to set it because the primary side appears to give a setting advanced by 10 deg using my non nissan timing light .

im running a nistune realtime ecu, i have not disconnected the tps but nistune always reads 20deg when idling around 950rpm so i assume if consult is reading 20deg then time it to 20deg. the nistune timing log is a constant 20deg. while idling.

The primary lead is on the 12volt side the ht is the spark plug side im using the ht to set it because the primary side appears to give a setting advanced by 10 deg using my non nissan timing light .

im running a nistune realtime ecu, i have not disconnected the tps but nistune always reads 20deg when idling around 950rpm so i assume if consult is reading 20deg then time it to 20deg. the nistune timing log is a constant 20deg. while idling.

Sounds right.

Set it to 20 deg on the HT lead. I thought that is what you were referring to as your primary. I realise now you were actually referring to the primary circuit wire.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...