Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 168
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Aww shucks..

I will post a thread about caliper painting in the classifieds section when I get back from melbourne in a weeks time.

The cost for four calipers is $55, and four hubs $15

Silver 'nissan' lettering on calipers (where applicable) $10/pair. (You need existing raised cast lettering for this.. most skylines/200sx have it, some only the front brakes.)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34830-hello-all/page/3/#findComment-712315
Share on other sites

Spectrix did u only paint the caliper? or did u paint the raised part of where the wheel screws onto.. sorry duno the name? it looks pretty cool.. im curious weather u painted that part of just cleaned it real good....

Michael

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34830-hello-all/page/3/#findComment-712620
Share on other sites

The cost for four calipers is $55, and four hubs $15

Is that you come to me or me come to you? How long does it take and how long does it take to dry? Do you do clear over or not? What colours can you use?

I think it would be really easy to do, take rim off, cover disk, spray on, but I am just too lazy to get off my fat a$$ and do it, and it's only $70, bah that's nothin to me, just an extra day's work :) But I'd want the hubs the same colour as the calipers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34830-hello-all/page/3/#findComment-712723
Share on other sites

I hold a small workshops every couple of weekends or so. 2 or 3 cars.

Caliper paint colours I have here are Red, Yellow, Blue & Silver. 99% of people choose Red, it simply looks great on any car. This is what I recommend to most, as no one is ever dissapointed.

Others colours can be sourced if need be. Hubs can be painted colours too ($30/car).

EDIT - when I say workshop.. it's me working, and you guys talking :D

Cheers guys

Joey

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34830-hello-all/page/3/#findComment-714172
Share on other sites

Hay joey looks like your onto a hot thing here , when is your next workshop would love to come over and get mine done , once I am down there and have the car ofcourse ( 2 weeks away ) but I think I am going to have to go yellow

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34830-hello-all/page/3/#findComment-714343
Share on other sites

Ahh lol, the workshops are usually me working and everyone else talking. Owners help out removing wheels etc but the tricky stuff is performed by myself.

There are a few GC people so I might come down one weekend.

Its handy if owners bring an extra jack with them on the day.

I also photograph everyones car, so most guys wash their cars & wheels before hand.

a0017.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34830-hello-all/page/3/#findComment-714927
Share on other sites

There are a few GC people so I might come down one weekend.

Cool I will talk to the Gold Coast guys and see if we can organise a day that would be good for us all.

How big a group would you be prepared to deal with (i.e 5-6)?

And how much notice would you need?

Cheers Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34830-hello-all/page/3/#findComment-714954
Share on other sites

Nexus,

Hows the weekend of the 20/21st sound, now that's two people, just need 2-3 more.

I have been informed that all up it is $90 for both calipers and hubs, which I would love to get as then they would stick out like dogs balls on my car cause of my open Mags ;)

So anyone else here on the GC interested?

Also where would we have it, what's the car park at umart like Nex, big nuff for 4-5 Skylines? :)

Hopefully mine will be back on the road by then, if not then you can probably count me out :), I will do my best though!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34830-hello-all/page/3/#findComment-715070
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Had I known the diff between R32 and R33 suspension I would have R33 suspension. That ship has sailed so I'm doing my best to replicate a drop spindle without spending $4k on a Billet one.
    • OEM suspension starts to bind as soon as the car gets away from stock height. I locked in the caster and camber before cutting off the kingpin. I then let the upright down in a natural (unbound) state before re-attaching it. Now it moves freely in bump and droop relative to the new ride height. My plan is to add GKTech arms before the car is finished so I can dial camber and caster further. It will be fine. This isn't rocket science. Caster looks good, camber is good, upper arm doesn't cause crazy gain and it is now closer to the stock angle and bump steer checks out. Send it.
    • Pay careful attention to the kinematics of that upper arm. The bloody things don't work properly even on a normal stock height R32. Nissan really screwed the pooch on that one. The fixes have included changing the hole locations on the bracket to change the angle of the inner pivot (which was fairly successful but usually makes it impossible to install or remove the arm without unbolting the bracket from the tower, which sucks) and various swivelling upper arm designs. ALL the swivelling upper arm designs that look like a capital I (with serifs) suck. All of them. Some of them are in fact terribly unsafe. Even the best one of them (the old UAS design) shat itself in short order on my car. The only upper arm that works as advertised and is pretty safe is the GKTech one. But it is high maintenance on a street car. I'm guessing that a 600HP car as (stupidly, IMO) low as you are going is not going to be a regular driver. So the maintenance issues on suspension parts are probably not going to be a problem. But you really must make sure that however your fairly drastically modded suspension ends up, that the upper arms swing through an arc that wants to keep the inner and outer bolts parallel. If the outer end travels through an arc that makes that end's bolt want to skew away from parallel with the inner bolt, you will build up enormous binding and compressing forces in the bushes, chew them out and hate life. The suspension compliance can actually be dominated by the bush binding, not the spring rate! It may be the case that even something like the GKTech arm won't work if your suspension kinematics become too weird, courtesy of all the cut and shut going on. Although you at least say there's no binding now, so maybe you're OK. Seeing as you're in the build phase, you could consider using R33/4 type upper arms (either that actual arm, OEM or aftermarket) or any similar wishbone designed to suit your available space, so alleviate the silliness of the R32 design. Then you can locate your inner pivots to provide the correct kinematics (camber gain on compression, etc).
    • The frontend wouldn't go low enough because the coilover was max low and the upper control arm would collapse into itself and potentially bottom out in the strut tower. I made a brace and cut off the kingpin and then moved the upright down 1.25" and welded. i still have to finish but this gives an idea. Now I can have a normal 3.25" of shock travel and things aren't binding. I'm also dropping the lower arm and tie rod 1.25".
    • Motor and body mockup. Wheel fitment and ride height not set. Last pic shows front ride height after modifying the front uprights to make a 1.25" drop spindle.
×
×
  • Create New...