Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you'd want to tap into the sump wouldnt you?

because there wouldnt be any oil in the pump until the car is cranked/running?

but it would suck from the same place (oil pick up) and put back in the pressure side to go to the oil filter . it wouldn't be able to suck thro the standard oil pump because of the gears ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348646-rb26-oil-pump/#findComment-5604820
Share on other sites

whats the point of doing it. its not like engines have ever had an issue with starting on a normal oil pump before.

more for the fact that if your standard pump shit it self you have some chance of saving the motor

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348646-rb26-oil-pump/#findComment-5604965
Share on other sites

yeah ok fair point, im not sure that you would have enough power in the electric pump to supply the oil

yeah im with this, if you need something large to get the oil round in the first place, i dont think a small 12v pump would help much,

be better off with a good oil pump (nitto or jap brands), or external wet setup.

Would be better off to use a pressure switch for an engine cut, by time the small pump kicks in the damage would be done

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348646-rb26-oil-pump/#findComment-5605205
Share on other sites

yeah ok fair point, im not sure that you would have enough power in the electric pump to supply the oil

http://www.turbowerx.com/Scavenge_Pumps/Exa-Pump/Exa-Pump.html

check this pump out

they reakon it can pump 100 psi and comes with a 2 year warranty

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348646-rb26-oil-pump/#findComment-5605514
Share on other sites

For the money you'd spend on the pump, modifications, hoses, and fittings, you may as well have bought a jun/nitto pump anyway. Engine alarms and kill switches are the go to prevent engine death in the event of oil pressure loss, or accumulators if you want to protect against oil pressure surge as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348646-rb26-oil-pump/#findComment-5605551
Share on other sites

yeah, just buy a decent pump and a warning, in a built engine with crankcollar, and nitto/jap pump they can handle 9000rpm+ launchs without breaking.

seems more of a waste of effort and money to do it with a standard pump.

get the accumulator, but like mentioned in the other thread and on the site, those setups are for big hp and serious race cars

Edited by jangles
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348646-rb26-oil-pump/#findComment-5606157
Share on other sites

I wouldn't bother farting around with the oil pump... If you wanted to add an electric pump, you would install it as a redundant/seperate system.... with it's own oil pick up, filter and feed into the oil galleries.

I'm just going to use the largest accumulator or 'accusump' I can fit, along with a good oil pump and oil pump drive.

J.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348646-rb26-oil-pump/#findComment-5607051
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...