Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25 Neo 180Sx

ForceFedVL
 Share

Recommended Posts

ForceFedVL Contributor

ForceFedVL

Posted
Posted (edited)

$12500

TXT 0435509050 as I dont get service at home.

Selling as I will be a student as of the start of Feb and wont have the money to keep both cars on the road.

WILL NOT COME WITH STEREO

I have for sale my 91 180. I have owned it since 2008 when it was an auto CA18. Since then I put my Neo engine in that I have owned since it had 50000km on the clock, it now has 90-95k, and has been serviced by me EVERY 5k.

Already had 100k Service

Body has 86k on the clock.

All engineered and road legal

Reg runs out at the end of Jan will come with plates and roadworthy.

Pics are a few months old so have tidied up wiring around battery a little, still a little bit of tidying to do, and has had new tint put on a little darker

It has:

  • Gates Racing timing belt, idler, tensioner and Genuine Nissan R34 water pump and front 3 oil seals 6k ago.
  • PWR 44mm Rad. with a 10" and 12" SPAL thermo 12Mths old
  • Front mount with custom alloy piping
  • R33 5 speed with approx. 72k
  • Tein coilovers all round
  • R32 gtr brakes all round
  • r33 bm44 Master cylinder
  • 5 stud conversion with s14 hubs, knuckles and lca, and r33 rear.
  • r33 stockies with decent rubber
  • Genuine HKS SSQV
  • Momo steering wheel
  • blitz boost controller never run over 11psi.
  • cheap turbo timer but does the trick.
  • 52mm water temp,boost gauge and taco, taco not hooked up as real drivers dont need one! (stock taco works but reads 1/3 more, and stock speedo works but reads half as much, does come with jaycar corrector just not installed).
  • Ultra lightweight chromoly flywheel with exedy clutch plate and heavy duty pressure plate.
  • Bosch fuel pump 040/044 whichever is the intank.
  • Kouki light conversion
  • 3 inch exhaust turbo back
  • HUD works
  • Oil catch can

There is probably more but thats all I can think of at the moment

The bad,

  • Clear is fading on the roof
  • last owners bog holes from spoiler are lifting
  • kouki taillight trim isn't paint matched
  • one rather long crack on the dash above cluster.

Have been quoted 550 to repair bog in the boot, paint match hatch and kouki lights abd paint roof black.

Will swap for road bike no smaller than 600 + cash my way depending on whats on offer

post-40523-0-83930900-1294911081_thumb.jpgpost-40523-0-07817000-1294911095_thumb.jpgpost-40523-0-92260600-1294911104_thumb.jpgpost-40523-0-19052400-1294911161_thumb.jpgpost-40523-0-51387200-1294911186_thumb.jpgpost-40523-0-13746100-1294911214_thumb.jpgpost-40523-0-94024300-1294911225_thumb.jpgpost-40523-0-50006500-1294911236_thumb.jpg

Edited by ForceFedVL
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350247-rb25-neo-180sx/
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • Duncan
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By Duncan · Posted

      ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...