Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know what they are for......they modify the pinion angle....but how exactly are they constructed, and where exactly do they go? cos owning a 77 model line, im guesing u cant buy em, so ill have to make em.........and i dont see the point in buying r33 ones just to use as a template....but i will if i have to.......i want to go side ways

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35097-pineapples-not-the-fruity-kind/
Share on other sites

I know what they are for......they modify the pinion angle....but how exactly are they constructed, and where exactly do they go? cos owning a 77 model line, im guesing u cant buy em, so ill have to make em.........and i dont see the point in buying r33 ones just to use as a template....but i will if i have to.......i want to go side ways

Don't you mean DONUTS, the type JMS sell that are yellow in colour.

The things I know of are mounted above the rear crossmember, to help eliminate the twist/flex of the crossmember and diff.

I have an R30 and I went to NOLTEC at Thornleigh NSW and got new rear crossmember & diff support bushes made from URETHANE.

Cost me about $400.00 for 4 bushes, but they work great, makes the rear end very firm. :ghost:

  • 4 weeks later...

You mean the whiteline KCA349 Rear Subframe Align and lock kit.

this kit has several different height rings and mixing/matching these can give the desired result of standard bushes, all round performance, maximum traction and drift, this kit however only come available for the s13-14, r32-33 and 300zx.

i am sure whiteline would make a similar kit, and as ghostrider said he got some custom made, and they are the same rear end(s)

  • 3 weeks later...

yeah pineapples, the original name until some aussies at whiteline decided to nename them subframe alignment kits.

there are two pinion angle options; under subrame at front and above at rear will loosen rear, above at the front and below at the rear will give more traction (this is the desired setting for drift and circuit.)

theere are a few places which can make them up her in adelaide for under half the $400 i saw someone post.

there other even better alternatives which perform better and cost less, spun steel. if you have access to a lathe spin them up. they give way more stability under high load and eliminate tramp, only downside is the transmit more NVH. i use a combination of both.

under subrame at front and above at rear will loosen rear, above at the front and below at the rear will give more traction

Cheers...this is the info i was after......much appreciated

also...roughly how thick are they?

Cheers...this is the info i was after......much appreciated

also...roughly how thick are they?

18mm initial, 15mm installed.

front x4

70mm total diam outer

39mm inner hole diam

rear x2

80mm total diam outer

39mm inner hole diam

your skyline looks crazy, big fan. what V8 you running or transplanting. used to do some similar things earlier on. big hp 253 in 85 rodeo to tow ski boat, too much power not enough traction for a towey so replaced with stock 253. engine then graced a mark two cortina then finally ended up in my 12sec brougham which i stupidly traded on a soarer 3 yrs back.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • R34DE as in R34 with an RB25DE? So did you get this? Or you planning to?  I'm not really sure what you're saying. 
    • Possibly avoid using a Cometic one unless the deck/head surface are perfectly flat. I did have a look just then and forgiving gaskets such as Tomei or Nitto don't exist for the FJ20, however the Bar-Tek or Kameari ones look good and might do the trick.
    • Because pipe threads for pipe things. M threads for bolt things. Throw some teflon sealant onto it and dust your hands off knowing you did the right thing, instead of going twice around the block to achieve a result using the wrong things. Of course, all of these solutions are ignoring the fact that the minimum thread pitch we're talking about here is 1.25mm, with the 1/4" in NPT or BPS being out around 1.4mm. You will need to know that the boss you're tapping has enough thickness for at least a few threads. That's one of the reasons that 1/8" is commonly used - because the pitch is <1mm. And why would you look to use 1/4" NPT in a BSP country anyway? Ugh.
    • Just throwing around ideas, does it need to be in the compressor cover? Why not the hot side piping?
    • 1/8NPT drill size = 8.7mm. Since the hole got messed up by me, it’s probably around 9mm.    So 1/4” NPT would be next step. A drill size of around 11mm would be preferred there which is not way of my M12 (drill 10.5mm and tap M12 threads) 
×
×
  • Create New...