Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

for sale is a Brand New In Box Jim Berry Full Monty Race Clutch that i purchased a while back for an engine build that got cancelled.

Clutch is single plate button type, rated to over 800hp. 4400 pound clamp load.

will fit in a TT or NA Z32 gearbox!

Size, Spline OD & No. of Teeth 240 x 25.5 x 24

comes with clutch centre, pressure plate, thrust bearing and oil seal.

i paid $1450 for this clutch.

ideal for anyone going to make some decent power but still wants good driveability

here is website link

http://www.motorsportworld.com.au/outlets/raceclutch/

asking $1200 posted aus wide

Edited by lobsta

Any idea if this will fit other models, 33 to be precise?

it has the same physical size, spline outside-diameter and number of teeth so it would fit fine.

these can be verified on the exedy website under 'clutch finder'.

cheers

rob

Edited by lobsta

Don't bother Neil, i bought it today :-D

Lucky bastard!

I'm ordering my Full Monty on Monday. Except this one will cost me abit more...

Let me kno how she is to drive. I'm curious how 4400 lb will feel on the pedal.

Lucky bastard!

I'm ordering my Full Monty on Monday. Except this one will cost me abit more...

Let me kno how she is to drive. I'm curious how 4400 lb will feel on the pedal.

Will be a few weeks away yet, still gotta have have some things done to finish off the 3540 upgrade im doing.

Isn't this dependent on Push/Pull type?

Thanks for scaring the shit out of me!

After you mentioned this i thought i better do some of my own research (which i should have done before i bought it), found out that a z32 N/A clutch will fit a 33 but not a turbo z32 clutch, then found out that the turbo z32 is 10mm bigger, paniced and then remembered that the clutch and tape measure at 15 feet away, turns out it is the N/A 240mm and not the turbo 250mm, everything else is the same including all being push type, could have been an expensive lesson tho.

For the record 32 and 33 gtr and 34 gtt and C34 stagea is pull type, the 34gtr is also pull but bigger that the others.

Edited by W0rp3D

For the record 32 and 33 gtr and 34 gtt and C34 stagea is pull type, the 34gtr is also pull but bigger that the others.

Only late model 32 GTR's. Fitted with the larger rims, Brembo brakes etc.

The first few years of R32 GTR used Push type.

It can be modded eitherway but you gotta drill and tap your bellhousing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...