Jump to content
SAU Community

Smashed Water Pump

jrifda

By jrifda,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

jrifda Newbie

jrifda

Posted
Posted

Hi, I was hoping some of you might be able offer some ideas for my s1 R33 GTST......It has smashed the waterpump housing working fairly hard near the limiter, basicly ter was a loud clunk noise an on inspection the water pump alloy housing has broken an half an the fan has taken out the rad....... I cant work out for sure what has happened but I need to make sure its fixed so it dosnt happen again especcialy after i replace the busted bits.......and help/advice would be greatly appreciated....cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351631-smashed-water-pump/
Share on other sites
snozzle Mentor

snozzle

Posted
Posted

if your not competent enough to pull down the front end, observe whats broken and replace it then i suggest you find a mechanic you can rely on - preferrably a performance workshop who works with RB's regularly.

a new water pump should do the trick but we cant really tell you much else unless we can see what has happened.

Pal Veteran

Pal

Posted
Posted

how many km's has the car done and how hard do you drive it? the water pump probably hasn't been replaced ever and has seized hard at redline causing it to destroy itself. pull all the damaged stuff off, check your water gallery for damage. check your threads in the holes that the water pump bolts into for damage.

jrifda Newbie

jrifda

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I do drive it pretty hard an I suppose it is a failure due to being old, I was hoping that it was not another mech issure that led to its demise.......ill put in a new rad n water pump an see how it goes....cheers

how many km's has the car done and how hard do you drive it? the water pump probably hasn't been replaced ever and has seized hard at redline causing it to destroy itself. pull all the damaged stuff off, check your water gallery for damage. check your threads in the holes that the water pump bolts into for damage.

jrifda Newbie

jrifda

Posted
  • Author
Posted

as said replace everything thats broken. also check everything to do with that belt and make sure theres nothing thats gonna make it die again, such as a seized pulley.

[/qu

Yea ill inspect all when I replace all the busted bits.....cheers mate

Char Experienced

Char

Posted
Posted

english?

are you saying you were bashing limiter and then the water pump exploded taking out the clutch fan and the radiator?

if you cant explain what happened put up pics, by the sounds of it you will 'at least' be needing a new water pump $130, radiator and clutch fan.

was your car overheating before this? how many k's has it done, check oil pump and timing belt while ur at it

  • 4 weeks later...
blue_vl_t Rising Star

blue_vl_t

Posted
Posted

Just to add to this thread, i just installed new turbor on my car, chech the tune and bring the car on boost, bang, checed and water running everywhere, upon further inspection the water pump has a huge crack, the fan hit the fan shroud and destroyed it, radiator is ok. The pump broke in the direction of the belt pulling on the pully.

I havn't heard of this before, I will remove the pump assembly soon, see what caused it.

I'm not after an answer, just letting people know this can happen, will report back if i find a good cause to the breakage.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • albyz34gt
      R34 N/a And R34 Turbo (gtt) Transmission.. Uh, Problem.

      By albyz34gt · Posted

      @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • RB25inside
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By RB25inside · Posted

      Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • GTSBoy
      ECU sees many times the speed than speedo does (R34 swap)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...