Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I never thought I'd be selling this car but due to changed circumstances I need something more practical.

1996 series 2

6 months rego

dual airbags

HID head lights

2 tone Interior re-trim with nissan logos

JUN bodykit

Engine Mods:

Power FC ,hand controller, and boost control kit

Data logit and LC-1 wideband oxy sensor

GCG Hi-flow turbo with vg30 rear housing

Splitfire coilpacks

440cc Injectors

Bosch 040 intank

Z32 afm

Adjustable EX cam Gear

3" turbo back exhaust

Apexi pod filter, in perspex box

Front mount IC with custom piping

Gates racing timing belt

UNDERNEATH:

Whiteline adjustable sway bars front and rear

Adjustable rear camber

Hicas lock out bar

A1rm brake pads F&R

INSIDE:

Alpine headunit +six stacker

Pioneer 6x9's

Cadence 6.5in Splits

Cadence amp

Kicker sub

Tinted windows

Short shifter

Blue LED dash LIGHTS

I WILL TAKE PARTS OFF TO MAKE IT CHEAPER

NOW $14500

WILL SWAP FOR A LATER MODEL 4 DOOR FAMILY CAR eg. LIBERTY,IMPREZA

AND CASH EITHER WAY.

I WILL ALSO CONSIDER SWAPPING FOR A TRACTOR WITH FRONT END LOADER.

post-24599-0-09617300-1296125658_thumb.jpgpost-24599-0-67591900-1296125784_thumb.jpgpost-24599-0-31844600-1296125725_thumb.jpgpost-24599-0-41722900-1296125810_thumb.jpgpost-24599-0-64103800-1296125835_thumb.jpgpost-24599-0-89847000-1296125915_thumb.jpg

Edited by Hootchy

Ah if you were not so far from sydney I would be pretty interested, just moved to aussie and wanting to replace my NZ r33

Saw this car on ebay - gl with the sell. In my op even with the mods you might find you have to drop the price again. I bought mine for $7500 AUD in NZ a few years ago and sold it for much the same (actually the rate was not the same back then so more like $8500) - yours is sII though, with nicer interior and more mods. I have noticed less good skylines for sale here in Aussie too, which prob drives the prices up. Good cars. If you can't sell at your current location for current price and are prepared to drop a few grand + bring it closer to sydney, let me know, fewer mods is ok.

Cheers

Duncan

post-81416-0-78837900-1296833732_thumb.jpg

post-81416-0-98479900-1296833750_thumb.jpg

post-81416-0-02638100-1296833935_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2

point taken

$13 000 ono as is

$10 000 with stock turbo , ecu, injectors, afm, coilpacks.

might be able to deliver to sydney for serious buyer

Edited by Hootchy
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Car is rego'd till mid march 2012.

Dash surround can be painted.

Sorry sold some of the mods already

though it still has

GCG Hi-flow turbo with vg30 rear housing

Bosch 040 intank

Adjustable EX cam Gear

3" turbo back exhaust

Apexi pod filter, in perspex box

Front mount IC with custom piping

Gates racing timing belt

Whiteline adjustable sway bars front and rear

Adjustable rear camber

Hicas lock out bar

A1rm brake pads F&R

HID head lights

2 tone Interior re-trim with nissan logos

JUN bodykit

Alpine headunit +six stacker

Pioneer 6x9's

Cadence 6.5in Splits

Cadence amp

Kicker sub

Tinted windows

Short shifter

Blue LED dash LIGHTS

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...