Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

In my travels of trying desperatly to find a shockie reconditioner for my adjustable HKS Hypermax i have finally found such a place.it is in Queensland and when on the site go to SHOCK RECONDITIONING to get a list of their big name shock brands they reco.if they have not got yours listed just ask them and they may even be able to help.

on the other hand if anyone knows someone who recos hks hypermax back to factory specs in N.S.W (sydney preferably) can they let me know in this thread.or leave a pm.

This is the place>>>

www.shockreco.com.au

:flamed: :bs!: :jk:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35507-reco-place-4-hks-hypermax/
Share on other sites

you know he did say that to me or my other alternative was to send them to japan cause quote,''thats the only place who can recondition these,you wont find anybody else in Australia who will reco the hypermax 2''.errrr wrong answer as i found out l8er on.

TonyGtS-T i noticed a knockin sound comin from the front so i took them to bd4's to have them assesed.And so as it turned out there was substantile play in the cylender struts causin it to knock....i was there watching as they did it to....

f@#$n spor%s shock$ FarK!! :throwup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...