Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello Fellow Skyliners...

Just purchased a 96 Silver, series 2, r33 with larger exhaust and 18 inch rims about the only mods. The car is auto - not what I originally wanted, although when driven - still amazing fun.

I do have a question for the more experienced campaigners...

After nearly red-lining in 1st - 2nd - a swirl of grey/white smoke (not always) is expelled from the exhaust - usually happens when I lift off the gas... I am assuming that this is a whole load of fuel being dumped - but wanted to confirm. Is my car a 747 dumping fuel on the ocean before landing? Or was my car born to me with a slight handicap of sorts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35779-new-owner-white-smoke/
Share on other sites

if it was fuel it would be black smoke.

Isnt white smoke from water? Does this happen when you first drive your car or even after its been driven for say 1 hour?

It usually happens on cold mornings as condensation in the exhaust system gets evaporated.

Ok - def white smoke - not usually after rain... Although, after car warms up and shoots a couple of loads - no longer really evident.

Thanks for advice, will def check out with the boys at Garage. Just having too much fun to worry about it at the mo :D

Did reset the ECU the other day - fuel consumption has dropped and less of the smoke'n...

Condensation??? Hmm - the exhaust is rather large? :D

Cheers.

i hope its not turbo seals , take it to a long downhill engage low gear say 3rd so its fairly high rpm 5-6000 stay off the gas pedal when you get to the bottom of the hill then push the gas pedal and watch in the mirror if you get a cloud of smoke either blue of grey whitish its not good . depending on the colour ( grey , white turbo seals ) blue =rings and or valve seals .

ps make sure engine is normal temp not cold , any black smoke is unburned fuel .

Don't want to be too negative Alex but i don't like the sounds of it. Get a leakage or compression test done as soon as possible incase it's doing some damage. I had the same problem with my R33, blowing a big cloud of white smoke when i eased off the gas after giving it some stick. Initially thought it was a blown turbo, then found out ringlands in one cylinder were f*cked. Hello $$$$.

Worked out that there was a lot of blowby in one cylider causing the cloud, but as the pistons heat up and expand, the problem doesn't seem so evident. Full rebuild in the process for me. Hopefully get the car back this week.

Hopefully for your sake it's not so bad.

Good luck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...