Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Need some help!

My 34 GTT has started swaying on the highway when I hit minor bumps.

The best way to describe it is that it feels like the back wants to go a different way than the front.

Also it feels like it kind of corrects itself a bit, not sure whether that's got something to do with the HICAS?

All I know is it scares the hell out of me driving on the highway now, it's kind of like driving on ice (not the drug).

Any help would be great!

Cheers,

Jaylon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358371-swaying-on-highway/
Share on other sites

If your HICAS steering sensor is mis-aligned, this can cause 'crabbing' at speeds 80kph - worse, at approximately 110kph HICAS will turn off which will stop that crabbing and the rear end would kick out (experienced this myself).

I would suggest you get a suspension specialist to check your rear suspension first - see if there's any movement in bushes, etc - and particularly in the HICAS rear steering rack - this can and does happen, as it's a wearing part. If the HICAS steering rack is worn & has movement, it will basically like your rear wheels are loose and that can make the car particularly unsettled even at 60kph going over bumps (I've experienced this too).

Anyway, give that a shot first and see if you can rule things out - but there's plenty of things you can do once you've ruled that out.

  • 3 weeks later...

Got the HICAS lock bar installed and the car is worse than before, now happening bad at 80k's when going over a bumpy surface, can even do it at 60k's.

When my car was parked in my driveway I tried to push the rear from side to side but it had no give, it was solid as a rock.

Not sure if it's going to be a rear shock or maybe bushes?

It got aligned on Monday, thought they would pick something like that up when they were aligning it?

Trying to sell the car so gotta get it fixed ASAP.

Anyone have any advice?

What is the castor figure? Sounds like it started after they changed the bushes. You need max castor for straight line stability at speed 6deg or 7 deg. (usually only acheivable with adjustable arms although you can usually get a bit of adjustment with eccentric bushes). But from what you say it could be something coming adrift. Suspension shop should have checked all bolts for tightness and used a bar to check ball joints etc. A suspension shop should have a rig to test shocks or you can do it yourself. Walk around the car and push each corner down hard and let go. It should come up and stop. If it goes up and down even once the shock is shot. What is your warrant of fitness test like over there? In NZ the inspection usually picks up faulty ssupension items and a new wof will be good if you are selling.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...