Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm toying with the idea of moving on from the S13, do people do swaps these days? I'd be looking for an R33 with similar mods and street reg'd. Wouldn't be looking to pay cash on top.

Here's what I've got

1989 CA18DET 5spd

144ks service history and receipts

T25G on 12-13psi

Greddy FMIC

Pod Filter

Drift Catch Can with baffle

Turbo Smart XS Boost Controller

Grex Oil Filter Relocation Kit

BTR Oil Cooler Thermostat

JJR Oil Cooler

Home Made Heat Shield and Cold Air Intake

Alloy Radiator

S14/S15 Front Calipers

RDA Ventilated and Slotted Front Rotors

RDA Slotted Rear Rotors

QFM A1RM Pads all round (plus standard street pads)

R32 GT-R Master Cylinder

TRW 600 Brake Fluid

S15 Power Steering Rack and Tie Rods and new Super Pro Rack bushes

C-West Twin Blade Adustable rear spoiler

Alloy Boot mounts for the spoiler and brackets inside the boot to add support

BC BR Coilovers (Height, Damper and Camber Adjustment) Have c-spanners to adjust

Front Strut Brace

ISC Rear Camber Arms

3" Turbo Back Exhaust with de-cat

Dry Cell Mounted in Boot with Battery Isolater Switch

Aftermarket Steering Wheel

D1 Quick Release Hub

Momo Gear Knob

Momo Pedals

Auto Guage Smoked Water Temp, Oil Temp and Oil Pressure Guages (Oil Temp has warning buzzer and peak recall).

SAFC V2

Custom Fascia for Guages and SAFC

Boost Guage in A Pillar Holder

GKTech OVerflow bottle

Blitz Turbo Timer with Boost Guage and Lap Timer

Velo Podium FRP Race Seat, will take 5 point harness

Velo Alloy Adjustable Seat Mounts, Custom Frame using the standard bolt holes

Unmolested black dash with no holes/cracks

Alarm with Remote Central Locking

Semi Stripped Interior (No Stereo, no rear trim)

Stagea floor mats

Air Con Completely removed

17x7 5 spoke alloys with 215 Rubber

17x8 and 17x9 Volk(Rays) Emu Racing Rims with Centre caps and Rays centre cap remover. Come with Worn 235 Semis

R32 GT-R Grill

Custom Vented Front bar to feed air intake and oil cooler with Mesh Inserts

New Genuine Rocker Cover Gaskets

New Genuine Exhaust Manifold Gaskets

New Genuine Half Moon Seals

Also have the following spares

T25 Rebuilt in 2004/2005 with receipts, only done 15,000ks on standard boost includes actuator

All Rear/Boot Interior minus parcel shelf

Standard Camber Arms

Standard Shocks

Standard Washer bottle that was removed

All Components of Air Con

Standard Rear Spoiler

Spare PWR Heavy Duty Oil Cooler, was used for the trans on the tow car for only 10000ks

Car has been kept registered and can be transferred to another Vic owner without presenting to Vicroads just needs a roadworthy certificate and most of us known someone who can help with that.

Alot of the stuff on the car has only done 1500ks and I have recepits for most of it, it ain't cheap when you add it all up =\

Previous owner had the car serviced and maintained at a workshop so the car has history from about 77ks when it arrived in Aus (I bought at 142). As the car has been used for light track duties I've replaced the oil and oil filter every 500ks at the most (yes five hundred) as it's quick to do and cheap insurance.

Car started out as a very clean road car with basic mods and the body and interior shows that it was looked after quite well. All electrics work, no cig burns or tears etc.

Here's a pic, more below.

post-23873-0-24832600-1300929049_thumb.jpg

More Pics

Edited by ActionDan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358545-eoi-swap-s13-for-r33/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Car made 164 killa wasps recently on a Dyno Dynamics setup - check the link for pics.

If I keep it I'm considering parting with the Velo which is in immac condition and barely a year old - See these lines.

Velo Podium FRP Race Seat, will take 5 point harness

Velo Alloy Adjustable Seat Mounts, Custom Frame using the standard bolt holes

I'd swap for a driver and passenger R33 GT-R seats in decent nick..

Would also swap the car for an R33 or S14 with lesser mods/more road oriented.

How it looks when I drive it to work more or less.

Differences is it has the GT-R grill on it now, and I leave the mounts for the C-West spoiler attached (not the legs just the mounts).

Very streetable.

post-23873-0-57453700-1302660376_thumb.jpg

It's setup for grip at the moment, hence the semi slicks and suspension settings but with a few quick adjustments it would slide very well.

Lower it, stiffen it up, take out some camber from the rear, use different tyres, and change the wing angle and it will slide very well. The best part is all you need to do to make those changes is just adjust the gear that's already on there and choose which set of rims you want to use, the 215s on the 17x7s would be perfect for drift.

With the radiator, brakes, brake ducts and oil cooling it stays very happy. Catch can only even has oil in it if the sump has been overfilled.

The Velo holds you in awesomely too, plus the S15 rack and new rack bushes give nice direct feel.

Edited by ActionDan

mate i got an r33 1994 with 102000kms.....made 155 rwkw

front mount

boost gauge

bilstein shocks

running 11psi (put down to stock boost for daily driving)

nismo injectors

walbro fuel pump

heavy duty clutch brand new last week it was put in

overhauled and reoiled gearbox

full service history

what you think..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...