Jump to content
SAU Community

R30 Won't Start

jrh001
 Share

Recommended Posts

jrh001 Proficient

jrh001

Posted
Posted

Hi,

The R30 has been sitting in the yard for two weeks. Usually it starts first time, even after many weeks, however now it fires for a second or two and then dies. After that nothing, the engine just turns over.

If I wait a minute, switch ignition off and then try again, it does the same thing, fires for a second then dies.

I can hear the fuel pump priming. There's fuel in the tank and the fuel filter is full of fuel so the fuel pump is working. There must be some spark because it does fire briefly. Coil is new, and the new coil gives same symptoms as the old coil. No obvious leaks anywhere, battery is fully charged. I recently replaced the temperature sensor and cold start valve (with parts from wreckers) and car was running well when last used.

Any thoughts on what to check next?

JH

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358885-r30-wont-start/
Share on other sites
Factory 5 Mentor

Factory 5

Posted
Posted

Id also check if the injectors have leaked and then gummed up (fuel tyurned to varnish like substace) and now blocked.

Same thing happened to me!

It would run for a few seconds then just die.

I found out the cold start injector (the agricultural irrigation like fuel injector in the intake plenum) was spraying enough fuel during cranking to actually get it to run. Once the starter motor stops the cold start injector stops too.

Maybe test it out by un-plugging the cold start injector (simple clip on plug) and see what happens.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358885-r30-wont-start/#findComment-5735215
Share on other sites
jrh001 Proficient

jrh001

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Andrew,

I'll unclip the cold start injector and test your theory. Is it likely that all the injectors would gum up? Maybe the relay is faulty.

@Peter, I think the dizzy/ignitor is OK. It's the 'newest' component on the car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358885-r30-wont-start/#findComment-5735290
Share on other sites
66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted

Thanks Andrew,

I'll unclip the cold start injector and test your theory. Is it likely that all the injectors would gum up? Maybe the relay is faulty.

@Peter, I think the dizzy/ignitor is OK. It's the 'newest' component on the car.

[/quote

I have just been thru this.

Get some throttle body cleaner. Clean the AFM and the throttle body. Worked for me. 100%

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358885-r30-wont-start/#findComment-5735859
Share on other sites
jrh001 Proficient

jrh001

Posted
  • Author
Posted

...

I have just been thru this.

Get some throttle body cleaner. Clean the AFM and the throttle body. Worked for me. 100%

That did the trick (plus a new fuel filter). Back on the road.

Thanks for all the replies.

JH

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358885-r30-wont-start/#findComment-5739298
Share on other sites
jrh001 Proficient

jrh001

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi Socrates,

I suspect the fuel filter was the main problem. The throttle body was very dirty so cleaning that must have helped. As for the AFM, it was reasonably clean but I also cleaned up the electrical plug and connectors.

The problem with EFI is that a fault in any one of the sensors, relays, connectors (or an air leak!) can cause problems or stop the engine from running. I collected a set of relays off a wreck today - just in case (!). I probably need more testing tools, a fuel pressure gauge would be useful - for a while I thought that the fuel pump wasn't delivering enough fuel.

JH

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358885-r30-wont-start/#findComment-5739405
Share on other sites
Factory 5 Mentor

Factory 5

Posted
Posted

I can confirm that there has been alot of problems with fuel since the floods in qld. I know of at least 6 cars now that have crapped themselves due to fuel. Tank clean and new filter, and purged lines have fixed them all.! (including my R30 Hatch which is in Brissy at the moment)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358885-r30-wont-start/#findComment-5740330
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Erelyes
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Erelyes · Posted

      Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 Drama's

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Julsmadrid
      RB25 Drama's

      By Julsmadrid · Posted

      Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...