Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Recently I have decided to jump into the world of skylines so I want to take the first step, buying one!

What I am looking for:

Price: Under 10k

Model: R33 turbo (later the year the better)

Transmission: Manual

Location: I am located in the north of Brisbane, but for the right car I will travel much further (out of state if needed)

Body type: Preferred Sedan but coupe is not a deal breaker

Colour: Preferred white or silver

Mods: I am looking for a car that is as stock as possible. I have no intension of racing or drifting. This is just a car I would like to have before I have to move on in life.

Km: Lower the better I guess

I would like any car I am serious about to be inspected by state roads or similar.

There are so many R33 for sale I thought this thread might be a better idea than me trying to read through them all potentially missing one.

Contact me here or [email protected]

Please let me know straight up if this is an realistic request.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359812-wtb-r33/
Share on other sites

my mate in melbourne as a fairly stock and non molested R33 series 2... shes fair nice aswell if ur out of melbourne come down have a look im sure ull be suprised how nice and clean it is... ill give u his mobile

his name is Peter tell him george gave you his number about his R33 (white skyline)

Peter Pham - 0432729890

By the way im real pedantic about condition and shes mint :)

Wish u the best on ur hunt :D

Edited by v8tzr
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359812-wtb-r33/#findComment-5745540
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And one last super random thought, I remember when SAUNSW had a dinner with Alan Heaphy, and another with Fred Gibson there was talk of the R32 GTR cast alloy uprights failing in racing, and one of the things Fred did when they had to add weight to the vehicle was taken the failing alloy uprights, and have them made of steel. Does anyone remember back to 1990/1991/1992 and WHAT was failing in the front hubs/uprights?
    • If you truly want to know how the original failed though, was it a factory defect possibly etc, send it off for investigation. Would probably cost a shit tonne.   The ones that you need to win lotto for, unless you have a good reason for that part to be bolt on, I'd probably roll with getting a few small stitch welds carefully put in place as an extra safety factor once everything is all torqued up tight
    • Are you sure? Because I wouldn't necessarily be. Do we even know the material they've made the new uprights from?   Looking at the fractures in the earlier pics, it does to me look like both a twisting, and levering upward action doing the damage, so you're hoping for both compression, and tension. Depending on the bolts, they can stretch (even high grade bolts will) and now you're hoping for the threads themself not to stretch, as if they do, bye bye mating surfaces holding together, hello bolts now going into shear.
    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
×
×
  • Create New...