Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It involves doing a google search to start off.... then you may find some info that is already out there such as this... http://www.datfusion.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3&mode=threaded

or even another thread just like this where someone has already been flamed and provided with links... http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=467906

:domokun:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/361344-sr20de-na/#findComment-5767759
Share on other sites

I have done this conversion a few times and recommend the following:

S14/15 OEM exhaust manifold

S14/15 OEM turbo + all elbows and intake snorkel

3" off the shelf TBE to suit your model

Brass T-piece for oil pressure switch from Pirtek

1M oil line to meet T and turbo from Pirtek

2 x banjo-bolt barbs for 5/8 water hose to suit turbo

3M 5/8 HIGH TEMP water hose and 4x hose clamps from turbo to throttle body

1 x turbo drain pipe and sump drilled in OEM blanked position to suit + hi temp oil resistant hose (roughly 40cm)

off the shelf FMIC kit to suit your model

any SR20DET injectors (from S13-S15) even RB25DET ones will work

Fuel pump

ECU remap

You will not need to change the AFM as the factory AFM is equal in capability to the DET AFM. You cannot use the DET ecu as it is a different harness and uses coilpacks etc (yet I have also done this conversion too)

Expect an easy 180rwkw that will be faster than your average 'bolt-on' SR20DET setup.

The above in an S13 has net me 0-100 in under 5s and 0-200 in under 13s, the torque from the added compression is valuable to say the least.

Alternatively you could spend $3500 on a halfcut then put a TBE, FMIC and make an average 160kw (unless you get something T28 powered or put one on).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/361344-sr20de-na/#findComment-5768642
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...