Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gtst-T Rb25Det Manual Sedan - Series 2


Recommended Posts

1996 r33 gts-t sedan series ii. rb25det manual - asking cheap price $6900

factory black. lower half painted kermit green. stock exterior, no rear spoiler.

tidy interior. good mechanical condition.

exedy heavy duty clutch

front mount intercooler

manual boost controller

boost guage

sports exhaust

spitfire coil packs

remote alarm

cd stereo

new 500cca battery

otherwise stock condition with stock r33 gst wheels

had 200,000km service with gates timing belt, new waterpump, seals

Also had the head skimmed, new genuine nissan headgasket installed

fast and reliable

registered till august 2011

not really interested in trades thanks

The car was imported in 2006 with 169,000km and has done 75,000kms since

post-47634-0-47550100-1307753422_thumb.jpg

post-47634-0-76171200-1307753549_thumb.jpg

post-47634-0-37840500-1307753897_thumb.jpg

post-47634-0-89532000-1307754014_thumb.jpg

post-47634-0-58719000-1307754500_thumb.jpg

Edited by Brokenz
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Awesome to know. I have a Series 1, and When pulling my front bumper off for the first time i realised my reo/crash bar was a bit worse for wear, and was going to try pick up a better one soon just so i can replace it. Someone is selling a full series 2 front bar and brackets for a decent price, so was going to probably reuse my brackets and install the new second hand reo/crash bar. I also have a genuine Altia body kit to do up, spray and put on, and not sure if that will use the series 1 or series 2 brackets for the front bumper, so having both will be handy, and knowing i can drill holes out to make stuff fit between series is also handy to know!
    • I should also say that the while they are different the only parts that matter are the center headlight supports and center bar from S1 to S2. The center bar will work, but the S1 has holes that clips go through into the S1 bumper. So if you were super cheap you could simply drill the S2 bar. Same thing with the side/wings. They have slightly different 'clips' but can be made to work. The center headlight brackets however, cannot. This is also where the GTR differs, which has a different center bar, and different headlight supports (to either GTT system), it also has different 'wing' headlight supports which is what I am calling under the headlight. However those CAN be made to work with the GTT Reo for a GTR front bar by a small spacer and a drill/tapping a thread into the reo because the bolt positions are slightly different. So people only really need the center brackets to go between GTT S1, GTT S2, and GTR if you are happy to do some tinkering.
    • Indeed  😃  Appears the site is back up now (migrated not updated) - kudos @funkymonkey & @PranK
    • If this, then this You can't really get away without it. There are hacks that you can do in Nistune, but things are much easier with the sensor than without it. If you're not planning to Nistune the ECU, then stop right now and add it to your plan anyway, because the ECU is going to shit the bed over the missing ABS and TC computers that it expects to see, and you need Nistune to stop it chucking all its toys over the side of the crib.
    • hey guys, so ive done a complete +t conversion using mostly stock parts on my rb20de neo r34.  Im wanting to know if a boost pressure sensor is needed? Seems like the engine cuts out when i try to do a pull and I have a feeling its because a boost pressure sensor is missing. I'm using a stock r34 rb25det neo ecu.
×
×
  • Create New...