Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as the title states Can I get it off of an rb25 with out taking off the cam gears. I am thinking of taking out all the bolts and seeing if I can lift up in the back and slide the belt off the front. Does anyone know if this will work or not? I tried taking off the intake side cam gear but it's on there pretty good and I don't know how to get it off. I got the big bolt out but it's still on there tight.

cam gear should come off once you undo the bolt, it just needs some convincing. but no it doesnt have to come off to get the head off unless you wanna leave it attached to the belt on the right tooth

If you have an air compressor and a good rattle gun it will come off. Just need a big spanner on the cam.

BUT - You can remove the head with leaving this cam gear on. Problem is, its harder to get the cam gear off when the head isn't attached to the block.

sounds like thats what I'll do then. I don't plan on taking the cam gear off at all so no need to worry about it being easier with the head on the block and I plan on marking the postition of the belt with a paint marker on all the gears and the belt so it should be easy to get back in time. Looks like I just need to pull the lower timing belt cover off and loosen the tensioner. Thanks for the advice.:thumbsup:

best method would be to loosen the tensioner, take the head bolts off, prop up the head from the block by wedging some 10mm bits of timber (or something soft) between them, then remove the belt and then take the head completely off.

the idea is that if the cams move then you could possibly be up for replacing your valves. keeping the belt on eliminates this from happening, and propping up the head stops the valves hitting your pistons if either of them move after you remove the belt.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...