Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Did this today and very happy with the result.

The hardest bit for me was cutting the film and getting it to sit on there flat with no bubbles - etc. Got it pretty much spot on 4th time around.

Noticed that it is a necessity to cut it the new film to cover the LCD screen only, not the whole screen and the metal border like the pic in the original post.

Thanks again mate, great write up.

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

Hard to tell from that picture, wouldnt know until you get it out and give it a go.

Worst comes to worst, when you pull it out if you cant fix it - atleast it will be ready to have a new screen put in.

  • 2 weeks later...

im not sure about that one but the guy that owned my GTR b4 me has replaced the plastic screen that goes over the film and has cracked the plastic around the buttons, thing rattles when driving and im going crazy because of it, also the screen looks like its been pushed on to tight like the plastic is pressing on the LCD screen in the corners (like when u put ur finger on a TV or computer screen) so i think he has done something wrong there to, looks like im gona have to pull it all apart and get my superglue/plastic weild out or buy a new unit because of this crack :verymad:

You can see it rly well in this pic buy what i mean.

post-83784-0-36043400-1348645689_thumb.jpg

Edited by T4NK
  • 3 months later...

I was able to get another shot of the MFD.

To me it looks like it could be the polarising film?

Can anyone confrim from experience?

gtrdisplay.jpg

Yeah, mine was like that but not as bad. A polarising film will fix it.

  • 3 months later...

ok so mine was a bit more tricky... took me 5hr 30min. I KNOW!

so they sent me the polarized film but the sticky side was on the wrong side so when I put it back together and wired it up all I got was bright pink and yellow I was pissed.

took me forever to find the problem thought it was the tape wire connection not in properly so it gave off funny colours.... but no it was the film so watch out guys the sticky side isn't always right.
anywho here are some before and afters and im glad I did it makes it look a million bucks :D

BTW to fix the issue of the film being around the wrong way I just stuck it to the plastic protector so in theory I just stuck it backwards if you get what I mean ;)


post-94184-0-20697700-1366795631_thumb.jpg

post-94184-0-45445600-1366795643_thumb.jpg

post-94184-0-03624600-1366795653_thumb.jpg

post-94184-0-27886000-1366795667_thumb.jpg

post-94184-0-35603700-1366795677_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

This is great news. Was thinking about biting the bullet for a new screen, and now I just ordered the new LCD film instead!

Just wanted to add that you don't have to remove the ashtray and center console panel. You just need to pry off the air con vent below the MFD to expose the two screws. Don't forget to wrap your prying tool or screwdriver with electrical tape as not to scratch up the panels.

This video shows what I just explained and also how to further disassemble the MFD unit:

Also, for those of you still looking for a Sharp LCD screen, JDMautolink.com has them for sale. I am not affiliated with JDMautolink nor have I purchased from them before, but other than getting it from a guy on Yahoo Auctions JP, this seemed like the best option. If your MFD measures "kg/cm2", you need a Sharp screen. If it measures "kPa", you need a Toshiba screen.

Edited by javver

ok so mine was a bit more tricky... took me 5hr 30min. I KNOW!

so they sent me the polarized film but the sticky side was on the wrong side so when I put it back together and wired it up all I got was bright pink and yellow I was pissed.

took me forever to find the problem thought it was the tape wire connection not in properly so it gave off funny colours.... but no it was the film so watch out guys the sticky side isn't always right.

anywho here are some before and afters and im glad I did it makes it look a million bucks :D

BTW to fix the issue of the film being around the wrong way I just stuck it to the plastic protector so in theory I just stuck it backwards if you get what I mean ;)

I noticed you don't have exhaust and intake temp? I'm guessing you don't have the sensors?

If you want the exh and int temp just for the looks, you can hook those two wires up to your climate control's amb temp, then go into diagnostic mode on MFD to pick up the exh and int temps :)

  • 2 weeks later...

OK, so I finally got the job done. The hardest or perhaps most time consuming part was scraping off the glue between the original film and the screen. That part itself took about three hours. The rest was a breeze. Attached is a photo of my results. Turns out I'll be needing a new screen anyways if I want it to look perfect.

img2013052300100.jpg

...or did I do something wrong? The flim is facing the correct side. I tried the other side, and the whole screen is white.

There's only one sticky side on the film.... What was the screen like before you replaced the film?

Also, I'd double check the ribbon cable on and from the screen, making sure you have reinserted it properly.

Hmmm did you get polarised LCD film or just LCD film?.

What he said^ check the ribbon able, and if still didnt work, check the screen protected is on the plastic bit that goes back over the screen as it makes a difference to the colour aswell.. If all that fails ask Jesus. ;)

Btw. The polarised film they sent me had the sticky side on the wrong way so make sure it is on the right way... I know the sticky side is only on one side but check to make sure as mine wasnt :) hope this helps

  • 2 months later...

hi, have had this bookmarked for a while. been meaning to give it ago, but im not sure if it would work for mine. just wondering if anybody could tell me weather my screen needs to be replaced, or if i can just go about this film replacement. mine has the big orange patch, i can see the unit working around the edges. and help would be great, before i go and waste my time on this if its not going to help :)

thanks mate, email sent

here are you photos I had to chop them down abit as they were huge photos and couldn't upload them as 2mb limit....

id say order the lcd plastic give it a go and then if the screen is stuffed well then you already have it apart ready to put a new one in.... but I think the new lcd plastic will fix it.... worth a try as it is only 20$

post-94184-0-26879300-1374831737_thumb.gif

post-94184-0-26861900-1374831751_thumb.gif

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...