Jump to content
SAU Community

Help Me! Power Loss Issue

Julzillionaire

By Julzillionaire,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Julzillionaire Contributor

Julzillionaire

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi everyone

Car is R33 gts-t S2

Issue I am getting could almost be explained like having a slipping clutch. Put the foot down and the motor will rev and suck a lot of air but it goes no where. It will get a power kick for a second then nothing then kick in then nothing. It also seems to vary depending fuel in the tank. Generally less fuel means the problem is bigger and happens more.

I have tried with no success

- New fuel filter

- Octane boost \ engine cleaner stuff

- Check coil packs for cracks

- I think i have replaced the spark plugs

Another issue I have would be the battery doesnt seem to hold charge for long. For example I didnt drive it for a week and the battery was flat. (I have no alarm) My blinker blinks fast but all lights work. If listened to the radio for an hour I believe the battery would already be flat. (only 2 standard back shelf speakers)

- I have gone through 2 batteries already

Thanks for the help all :D

Edited by Julzillionaire
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/368290-help-me-power-loss-issue/
Share on other sites
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

so the revs increase but the speed doesn't? if so, definitely a clutch slip issue. a new clutch is your only real solution, but if it has been going on for a while then the flywheel might be in bad shape too. if it isn't a case of revs increasing but speed not, then your clutch is ok. if it is just that the car is gutless then it may be a fuel pump issue. if it sounds like it's misfiring, then it will be the coils, or possibly the ignitor pack (if you've changed the spark plugs then you can rule them out).

as for the battery issue, could be 1 of 2 things. 1: something is continuing to draw charge (possibly something like a boot light). this can be checked with a multimeter. 2: the alternator is cactus. again, can be checked with a multimeter.

Julzillionaire Contributor

Julzillionaire

Posted
  • Author
Posted

so the revs increase but the speed doesn't? if so, definitely a clutch slip issue. a new clutch is your only real solution, but if it has been going on for a while then the flywheel might be in bad shape too. if it isn't a case of revs increasing but speed not, then your clutch is ok. if it is just that the car is gutless then it may be a fuel pump issue. if it sounds like it's misfiring, then it will be the coils, or possibly the ignitor pack (if you've changed the spark plugs then you can rule them out).

as for the battery issue, could be 1 of 2 things. 1: something is continuing to draw charge (possibly something like a boot light). this can be checked with a multimeter. 2: the alternator is cactus. again, can be checked with a multimeter.

Hi,

Speed does increase but its gutless. I'm thinking fuel as well. Thanks for the multimeter tip, I will try that.

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

What boost controller? Have you set it right? My old car with a profec b spec 2 would punch then hit the limiter then I lose boost and it goes gutless then kicks back in. Chucked it on the dyno and my boost graph was a f**king heart beat readout, up and down.

Stock turbo has a 7psi actuator. Switch your boost controller off and see how it runs on 7psi. Leave wastegate connected obviously just use a direct line to the inlet on the wastegate and 7psi will push it open.

Julzillionaire Contributor

Julzillionaire

Posted
  • Author
Posted

What boost controller? Have you set it right? My old car with a profec b spec 2 would punch then hit the limiter then I lose boost and it goes gutless then kicks back in. Chucked it on the dyno and my boost graph was a f**king heart beat readout, up and down.

Stock turbo has a 7psi actuator. Switch your boost controller off and see how it runs on 7psi. Leave wastegate connected obviously just use a direct line to the inlet on the wastegate and 7psi will push it open.

I have forgotten all the terminology and names for things since it has been years since I was into cars. But mine has a manual boost thingy that gives it 10 psi all the time. As stock i think has 5psi then opens to 7psi ?

Do you suggest to plug it into the stock solinoid..?

Julzillionaire Contributor

Julzillionaire

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

your fuel pump could possibly be on its way out..

I'm thinking this may be the case. What should I replace it with? With possible upgrades in the distant future. Or where can I pick up a second hand or cheap stock one? Also do I just need a pump its self or are other items needed ?

Is this a good replacement?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Walbro-GSS342-Fuel-Pump-Nissan-S13-S14-S15-R32-R33-R34-/170583647922?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27b793e6b2

*NOTE this gutless issue has been like this over a year. Also chews through the juice compared to when I first got it. From memory

Edited by Julzillionaire
Julzillionaire Contributor

Julzillionaire

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Any idea on Nissan genuine part price or even part number?

Just because there pretty quick with delivery. Usually next day.

Or even a

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/genuine-not-cheap-copy-BOSCH-040-600hp-fuel-pump-/360191720253?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53dd197b3d

??

Edited by Julzillionaire
Julzillionaire Contributor

Julzillionaire

Posted
  • Author
Posted

the walbro would fit on the bracket better than the bosch. i've had both and the walbro fits better.

Ok Thanks for the help.

I rang bursons today and they quoted = approx $290

Repco said theyll ring back and when I rang them back said they have no idea and theres only 2 staff in the shop = approx fail

Ebay = approx $120

ebay for the win

For people in the future reading this I will be following these instructions with this fuel pump Walbro GSS342

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/85375-r33-gtst-fuel-pump-install/page__st__20

So any questions PM me

Julzillionaire Contributor

Julzillionaire

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I also did as much as I could out of this DIY

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/174735-fixing-idlestarting-problems-rb25det-cleaning-air-regulator-easy-way/page__p__3204938__hl__tighten+throttle__fromsearch__1#entry3204938

My car idols a lot better and seems to have more guts. But now im starting to think its a clutch issue. Because its acting like when my last clutch went. Now I have to decide whether its cluth or fuel now....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • nash47
      Cas issue

      By nash47 · Posted

      Did and sync timing with light 
    • MBS206
      Cas issue

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • MBS206
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By MBS206 · Posted

      You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...